Radiaitor Removal - GTA V6 Turbo

First of all happy new year to everybody!

My radiator on my GTA V6 Turbo has started to leak (more of a weep than a leak) along the bottom edge. I was going to remove the rad this winter anyway and flush the cooling system through.

What I need to know is do I need to remove the front bumper to replace the rad ( I also have air con as well so assume this will complicate things?) or can it be done with the bumper in place? If the bumper needs removing does somebody have a bolt by bolt guide to doing this or know of if there is a guide somewhere?

Many Thanks,
Brad

The bumper needs to come off .There's a detailed procedure on the site
http://www.renaultalpineownersclub.com/ ... emoval.htm

The aircon's rad is not a big prob , just a few more bits to remove and move the aircon rad out the way .

Clee .

Thanks for the quick reply.

The procedure is exactly what I was looking for and is pretty much what I thought when I had a look underneath the other day.

So will the air con rad need to be removed as well? or just moved? Not an issue as the air con is not gassed up at the moment anyway (another job for the winter!)

Thanks
Brad

I can wiggle mine out the way Probably easier to remove it if not bothered about gas .Mines coming off for good now anyway .

Brad, when you put the undertray back on, it is a lot easieer to use cabe ties. It also makes it a 10 second job to remove the under tray at any time in the future and you willl never suffer any rusting problems with it again. "modern technology"

Brad, when you put the undertray back on, it is a lot easieer to use cabe ties. It also makes it a 10 second job to remove the under tray at any time in the future and you willl never suffer any rusting problems with it again. "modern technology"

PIKEY

Started removing the front bumper tonight.Heres an update so far!

1) 1. Remove the 6 Torx screws holding the flat 'undertray' section

None seized and removed easily

2) Loosen the clamp plates securing the upper trailing ends of the bumper to the underside of the front tub

Done offside. Losened off and bolt seems to be moving but not the nut and the clamp does not seem to be very loose? I suspect that the bolt was held in place with resin to the fiberglass and I have now broken this and this is why the bolt is spinning around (can anybody confirm this is the case)? If as I suspect then I will try and hold the bolt tight and shift the nut later

3)Unbolt the braces at their intersections with the corners of the bumper inner moulding

Clamped the rectangle of steel (what a poor design?) to the brace with a set of grips but cannot get my torx driver in the space easily so will try and get a smaller one tomorrow or an extension.


Grrrr, did not get very far in an hour! .

Only 1 Hour..... the night is young !!

Not when you have a one year old son its not

I still cannot undo the nut and bolt holding the clamp plate.I can get my finger up behind the bolt and I can feel the end just spinning around. Tried a set of mulgrips on the other end of the bolt (after drenching it in wd40) but just seems to keep spin round. Anybody else had the same problem and how did they get around it?

Thanks,
Brad

[BIG_MVS]

Yes - Really only one easy option with spinning captive nuts and it rhymes with spangle binder, sorry but it's the only way....

Interested to hear how you go on as I need to remove the bumper from my donor car and my own car in order to change the nosecone.

Yeh thinking along the same lines that I am going to need to cut it! Luckily I have freed it enough to be able to get a blade in between the nut and the clamp.

There is a small hole alongside the bolt and if I open that up slightly then I should be able to get the bolt out without removing the front wing !

Thanks,
Brad

Are we talking about the bolt at the top of the wheelarch ? You should be able to get at the head from the bonnet area .You can get a socket on .

Sorry to admit that the Angle Grinder has also been one of my most used tools when working on the GTA. Just be careful when you are grinding stuff next to plastic bits - they tend to melt a bit at high temps.

I think that best thing you can do with all these torxy things is chuck them and replace them with nice new stainless bolts. Even with the right drivers and stuff, they seem destined to strip completely at some point or other.