Replacing water pump

I need to replace the water pump on my GTA Turbo due to a leak from the shaft casing. I imagine this is due to a breakdown of the internal shaft seal.

Can any one tell me how difficult a DIY job this is? How hard is it to remove and how hard is it to refit? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.

I'm sure someone must have had their water pump off! No one have any advice! David? Steviemac? Anyone.... Cheers.

Sorry, never had to do one yet touch wood...I think it involves undoing some bolts and getting wet..

Cheers David. Thanks for the response anyway. Looks like I'll have to blaze my own trail then! I'll post how I get on in case it's of any use to anyone. Don't know how long it will take though. I''ve ordered a new pump from Renault and there's none in the country at the moment!

Actually I think its a pig of a job because there is a hose directly behind the pump and though I'm not 100% sure of this as I'm not near my car at the moment but I think you might have to remove the intake manifold to get at the clips holding the rear hose! This of course means a lot of unbolting- including two bolts holding the turbo- and a lot of hose loosening and wiring un plugging! Also the exhaust heat shield might foul the removal of the pump if the manifold is not removed. I know in the A610 the best access to change it was from underneath to get at the bottom bolts.

Also if you are doing the pump change the hoses around it that you have to remove as they often are reluctant to go back the same way and can be dameged if the clips are over tightened - silicone hosesare the best replacements i think david g sells them

Anyway i hope i am wrong and theres a short cut but in my memory there isn't !

Hopefully of some help

I found that the easiest way to remove the pump is to first remove the intercooler inlet and outlet castings and pipework, throttle cable assembly and anything else that will allow access to the various water pump pipes.
You will need to slacken the alternator to remove the drive belt and to do this you will find it easier to first remove the exhaust silencer and do this from underneath the car.
I would suggest if you don`t already have one to buy a flexible hose grip screwdriver, it makes taking the hose clips off so much easier,( assuming that you have adjustable hose clips and not factory fitted spring type hose clips).
There is a plastic cable tray (H.T. Leads) that bolts onto the water pump housing. If you are lucky the fixing bolts won`t be seized. I had to hacksaw through mine to release this tray.
The only awkward fixing to remove on the water pump is the bolt that sits behind the main pulley. Access to this is very restrictive but with perseverence it is possible to remove this bolt albeit one flat turn at a time.
Once all the mounting bolts are out remove the water pump from the underside of the car.
Putting the new pump back in is just a reversal of this procedure.
You may encounter other problems that I haven`t mentioned but this description is from my `BAD` memory.
Hope this is of use and good luck.

Cheers for the replies. That's a big help. It gives me a better idea of what to expect, although I'm not relishing the prospect!

I knew there was someone out there with the relevant knowledge! Thanks again.

I've just been out to look at my Espace [ V6 ], as I recently had waterworks probs. with that - but of course then realised that it's toatally different kettle of fish.
Hoewever bad changing the pump is - I GUARANTEE that changing the heater matrix on a V6 Espace is WORSE - dash out, steering column out, pedals out, electric / loom out - deepjoy. Actually removing matrix from housing - 45 seconds!!! Rest of the job 12 hours.
Good luck - by the sounds of it, if EVER my pump is suspect on ny Turbo, I might just change the whole plot for a 3 litre!
Beachcomber

Removed my water pump today.

Some parts were quite difficult but managed to remove the pump without having to remove the inlet manifold or the exhaust silencer.

Slackened the alternator to remove the belt and unbolted the two air inlet manifolds (the metal things with 'v6 turbo' cast into the top of them) to move these out of the way and unbolted the throttle cable bracket. I had to remove rubber petrol hose to get at one of the bolts for this, but I need to replace it anyway. The two bolts holding the plastic rail onto the back of the pump housing came off ok. The hardest part was removing the short lower hose on the right side of the pump, loosening the clip holding the hose onto the back of the pump (the one which disappears under the inlet manifold, this was difficult to reach). The lower bolt holding the pump on was obscured behind the pully and was quite difficult to undo, but a 13mm ratchet spanner was very useful here.

It wasn't too bad a job. The key is to have a decent set of tools.
I haven't got the pump yet from Renault I'll let you know how easy it is getting the new one on!

However, now I have the pump off I need to remove the pulley to put on the new pump. Can anyone suggest how to remove this? I haven't got a threaded extraction tool as stated in a Renault 25 V6 Haynes manual I have. It it possible to remove the pulley using a three-legged extractor tool?

Thanks!

As soon as Renault has the pumps in the country again this is a job I've got booked in with Paul Sage at ARR.

From what Paul was saying I believe that if its the authentic item the pump now comes complete with a new pulley already attached so you may not need to worry!! Might be worth checking with your local Renault parts department though.

After waiting a month, I finally fitted my new water pump today!

I managed to source a new pump from else where instead of Renault in the end. I've been waiting a month now after ordering the pump from Renault and it still hasn't arrived, nor can they tell me when it will arrive! I'll have to see if I can cancel the order and get a refund!

The pump I did obtain was a QH part, ordered off the internet last Monday it arrived on the Wednesday! I don't know what Renault's problem is!

If any one is interested the web site is: www.buypartsby.co.uk and the receipt had a Nottingham motor factors address printed on it called Sutton Auto Factors. Also it cost £58, as opposed tp Renault's £156+vat!

Everything bolted back together fairly easily. Getting the two short hoses, which come out either side of the pump, back on was probably the hardest part. There's not much room to try and squeeze them back on.

However, after filling the system back up and bleeding it, the car wont start! I think i can hear the fuel pump and the engine turns over, but it just wont fire up. I'll have to go over it tomorrow and double check everything is connected back together and all wires are plugged back in, but can anyone suggest anything i should check in case I' m missing something obvous?

Cheers!

Two of the most usual things, if youve removed the inlet manifold...TDC sensor plug and MAP sensor tube.

Thanks David. I'll check. It's also been stood with a fuel pipe off, as I took the opportunity to replace a perished one while the inlet hoses were off. Do you think all the petrol might be evaporated and is simply taking a while to feed through again?

Doesn't normally evaporate, but has the petrol been drained away at all? If you turn the key to ignition you will hear the rear pump prime. Keep doing it to make sure the fuel filter is full. As you keep doing it you should hear the pitch of the pump change (get lower) as it comes under more strain as the system is already under pressure.

Hadn't particularly noticed the pitch of the fuel pump. I'll remember to note it when i give it another try tomorrow. Thanks for your suggestions.