De-rusting front end

Well as the title suggests, I made a start today on cleaning up the metal work at the front end of the car.
So first things first - attacking the obvious elements with the dremel. Sounds too small I know, but it's pretty effective and works faster than you'd think.

It's coming up well - so far major sections of the front subframe / suspension are all solid so it's just a case of grinding and cleaning back to bare metal. Only issue I've found are the front bumper stays, it's very think section metal and perforated near the bumper:

20150704_184021.jpg

So replace or not? It's not part of the subframe, so how essential is it?

It's dirty work BTW

[mettersl]

Definitely rusted out on my atmo, along with the wing stays. Simon auto had the wing stays but not these parts, but I had been thinking of remaking them in stainless, got to be easier than cleaning and polishing?
So we just need a dimensioned drawing.....
Darren?

Cheers
Lee

They're fairly simple open section stuff.

Question is getting it off really, but something like this would do:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mild-Steel-Pr ... 1175298868

Easy to fabricate, I don't think there's much to them. Hacksaw and a hammer job.

[mettersl]

Looks like the right stuff, I guess you could get them galvanised or plated after fabrication. We have a hot galvanising plant here, not used them but followed lots of their output up the road in the morning...

They have a boss for a bolt inside the U but apart from that very simple .I think I have a couple of decent ones somewhere including one new .You could use Zinga cold galv paint Have had good results with that .
http://www.zinga-uk.com/

Might go aluminium instead - lighter & more corrosion resistant.

Let me see how easy it is to remove - I think that's going to be potentially more tricky than knocking up a replacement. I'll keep you posted Lee but if it's easy to do then I'll try to fabricate a pair for you too - need to check how it comes out first.

[mettersl]

I know I'm now biased, but I hope this goes well Darren.
This is being very cheeky but a set of dimensioned drawings would maybe allow a small run of parts? I used an online laser cutting service for my son's school project last year (in my days you had to do the work, now you just have to design it...)

just a thought.

Cheers
Lee

Well it's a work in progress.

Ground back a lot of rust today and the surface is much more smooth. Lots of dremel grinding in small corners. It still looks very rusty in these pics, but it's now just very light surface stuff - more dust and colour than actual rust. I need to now wire brush it all and get it wiped off.

20150711_175942[1].jpg

20150711_175938[1].jpg

I've also ordered up this stuff:

http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic-rust ... nt/c28117/

If you read their instructions then there's actually no need to apply rust converter first, they suggest going back to a wire brushed finish as it bonds better. I may apply rust converter to the more heavily pitted surfaces though.

Before anyone asks, yes I've only done one side so far.

....... Let me see how easy it is to remove -

Darren ...... Have you got the "U" shaped bumper stay off yet ?

No not yet John. Shouldn't be too hard unless the bolts are seized.

Just watch the one through the vertical boss ...it's 'retained' in the fibreglass

As long as it stays 'retained' I'll be happy Lee!

Have a good day at RATs today. Sorry I can't make it.

The saga continues......

This little lot arrived during the week. £5.99, can't say fairer than that: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7pc-HEAVY-DUT ... 487d2cb787

So with my new variety of wire brushes I carried on the task. Who needs axle stands when you have a plank of wood and an original GTA rear wheel; note also the strategic use of cardboard and double size Luzern Starbucks tea mug!:

20150718_163842[1].jpg

Front end is now looking much cleaner. The instructions for the epoxy mastic paint state that it can be applied over wire brushed steel but also to avoid burnishing the metal so that it has something to key onto.

20150718_164011[1].jpg

Front is pretty good now so moved backwards. Now this is when it gets annoying.....

The observant people might notice that the cover for the fuel pump and filter is missing - well that was there, but wasn't attached, so it's amazing it had stayed on. I need to look at how that mounts up but that's once I've dealt with the fuel filter (which wasn't changed, contrary to what they said when it was serviced) and was held on with.... yep, you've guessed it, cable ties. I think Jon had one in that had the same issue (might have been the Le Mans?).

Also the fuel line from the filter to the pump has a distinct kink in it. Does anyone know if these are available still - the top braided line above that is similar, so it begs the question if I should simply replace the entire unit and get a new fuel pump in there at the same time.

Spot the holes in the top of the subframe too. I think they should be weldable in-situ but comments welcome. Never easy is it!

Decided to move onto the more exciting stage.

As the Stones said: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InRDF_0lfHk

[BIG_MVS]

That's looking much better.

With regard to the rear subframe has anyone attempted to remove the subframe trying to keep the engine and box in situe? Maybe bracing the gearbox underneath and then using a engine hoist to keep it in the air, then remove the subframe so you can get it repaired/refurbished?