Turbo Removal/refit- help needed

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Stunned Monkey

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Postby Stunned Monkey » Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:08 am

Please please please don't use stainless hardware on the turbo. It won't rust,. but it's very likely to gall when you come to undo it one day - that's where the threads strip and you just keep turning it till you die of old age.

Just use regular hardened steel bolts/studs and plenty of copper slip, or whatever anti-seize compound floats your boat ;).
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Postby mettersl » Mon Jul 27, 2009 12:40 pm

Are Brass bolts any good at these temperatures?
Our Honda uses them all all over the exhaust- including the cat which gets very hot- it makes the bi-annual exhaust change a dream.......compared to a certain French car we all have.
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Postby jon_viola » Fri Jul 31, 2009 4:21 pm

Ok, so i failed :cry: :cry: :oops: :oops:

Got the Turbo to the mounting plate, got the heat shield to that. Got the turbo mounted to the exhausts tight, got the oil drain pipe on and tight, got the front water pipe attached and

Could i get the back one on could i F£$%K!!!!!!

Took Turbo off (apart form oil pipe) tried again for 30 mins still no luck.

Gave up, am officially pissed off.

Anyone got any ideas or tricks. I did think about bypassing it completely but the bottom water pipe mounts was rock solid.

So close and yet......
1989 GTA Turbo
2003 Mercedes E320 CDI Estate- A.K.A Badke Bus

www.badkequartet.co.uk
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Postby clee » Fri Jul 31, 2009 5:39 pm

How far is Sarf London from St Albans ?
I'm there from Sunday thro Monday at one of Dawns mates ...I might get a pass out Monday morning :wink:
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Rear water pipe

Postby Miles » Fri Jul 31, 2009 6:37 pm

Join the club,
that pipe can be a botch.
There are 3 techniques.
1, fit the adaptor and copper washer first, then fit turbo, then attach flexible hose last.
2, fit hose complete firstly though you need to undo flexible hose from the dodgy connector below turbo not advisable if it is tight, as it will break the metal pipe which is obsolete.
3. Do as you have done use patience the lord and fingers, a muscian shoud be dextrouse hahah.
And carefull align up the parts, a mirror can be helpful.

Hope the above helps.

I have done this countless times, this pipe is always a pain.

Top tip unless you have replaced the copper washers, heat up till they glow red this will give them back their sealing qualities. Failure to do this or renew will end up in leaks.

Dave

But as you have managed to get the oil drain on would indicate the turbo is in correct orientation therefore the pipe will fit, have a cup of tea and try again.

P.s if you need to disconnect the turbo mount from the flexible rear water hose, there is an allen key inside, although tends to get hidden in crud.
Splitting these to will definetly aid fitment to turbo.
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Postby MFaulks » Sat Aug 01, 2009 12:23 pm

clee wrote:How far is Sarf London from St Albans :wink:


.. do I sense a nice diversion tactic there :wink: :lol:
sure there will be a drink in there too 8)

.. tis about an hour I would guess... if passing you drive right past me encroute.

Hey Jon, is my ecu on the slow boat from China? :wink:
... A diamond is only a piece of coal that did well under pressure... PRV afflicted, may be I need to squeeze harder!!!!

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Postby clee » Sat Aug 01, 2009 12:45 pm

Jon is off on the fiddle so I won't be passing by ......I could do with picking some bits up still though ...pulled the injectors ....one had a split pintle but that was all that is visible ....

Ohh forgot to tell you ...You need to have a word with that Miles chap above ....He has had it away with one of your bits from the engine ....
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Postby MFaulks » Sat Aug 01, 2009 1:13 pm

ha-ha+ I don't know GTA owners... what bit?
... A diamond is only a piece of coal that did well under pressure... PRV afflicted, may be I need to squeeze harder!!!!

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Postby clee » Sat Aug 01, 2009 3:31 pm

Have a guess :lol:
The clue is in his post ......
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Postby MFaulks » Sat Aug 01, 2009 4:14 pm

... ah, starter for 10... :D my guess either the pink hair drier, or the mini water cannons, and given the thread connection - injectors then, no? If it's the hair drier, he needs deep psychological help - bigger is always better.. especially as it' only 'af a hair drier now coz rest is on yr 21 init :lol:
... A diamond is only a piece of coal that did well under pressure... PRV afflicted, may be I need to squeeze harder!!!!

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Postby jon_viola » Thu Aug 06, 2009 5:02 pm

Ok, so have now mounted pipes and begun to tighten it all up, however the rear brass heat shield screws have seized/burred so cannot mount the cage or heat shield- so will need a new one anyone got any cheap spares? Also my 8mm sump driver is crap so ordered a new one which arrives tomorrow to change the oil. I did however find the culprit! The main turbo nut in the air filter not a scratch on it!! Having washed out the charge cooler i would say it saved the engine, so many tiny metal pieces stuck before the gauze.

Should be back on it on Sunday pm, watch this space.........
1989 GTA Turbo
2003 Mercedes E320 CDI Estate- A.K.A Badke Bus

www.badkequartet.co.uk
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Postby jon_viola » Sun Aug 09, 2009 11:49 pm

All in and tight!


But......


Car will now not start.

I give up!!!!

Going away on Weds on tour till 23rd will re attempt then.
1989 GTA Turbo
2003 Mercedes E320 CDI Estate- A.K.A Badke Bus

www.badkequartet.co.uk
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Postby clee » Mon Aug 10, 2009 7:41 am

Did you check that earth on the rocker cover ??
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Postby jon_viola » Mon Aug 10, 2009 7:59 am

There was no strap left with the bolts etc left over but I ran a wire from the rocker cover to the suspension turret after your sugestion. Still wouldn't start.....
1989 GTA Turbo
2003 Mercedes E320 CDI Estate- A.K.A Badke Bus

www.badkequartet.co.uk
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Postby clee » Mon Aug 10, 2009 8:06 am

ECU/Loom earth ?
It should be on the R/H rocker cover and goes into the main top end loom .
Does sit crank over ? Can you hear the fuel pump prime ?
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