Engine re-build...the joy!

sniff sniff.......... i smell disaster

Look out Professional in da house

sniff sniff.......... i smell disaster

Perhaps you could enlighten us then?

Surely the liners will only seat in one place at one height? The have a flat bottom and are seating onto a flat surface (once cleaned off).....they are also 'top hat' type so they slot in.

You have to stack the seals and/or keep pissing about with the different sizes until you get all three within the tolerance specified in the book.

No its not ready.....the liners are leaking water, so I'm going to do the job myself this time....properly!

(just read this post) I have met blocks where the block has corroded around the liner seat - you may find your block is scrap.

On the plus side, find yourself a Volvo B280 or Renault Espace donor block and you can make use of the stronger cross-bolted journals and larger oil pump

Ive seen the liner seats on 2 cylinders and they appeared to be shiney once all the 'gunk' round tham had been removed.....its the other ones that didnt get a proper clean that I worry about!
Ive arranged to buy an engine from David so I wont need to worry about rebuilding mine too much.....I will still be doing it. Jonothan from the RR who worked for Rover's engineering and development dept. told me something interesting....there are no seals in the K-series....they only used blue hylamar sealant to set the liners into. They put a good bead round the bottom, then set the liner into it to the correct clearance. Once dry the excess was cut off with a razor blade. That sounds like a preferable option to messing about with Renault seals!!!

Yes I'm aware of the K-Series and its reputation.... undeserved most of the time but I'd stick to the way the designers designed it. Also if you buy liner seats from Volvo you get metal ones now.

....they only used blue hylamar sealant to set the liners into. They put a good bead round the bottom, then set the liner into it to the correct clearance. Once dry the excess was cut off with a razor blade. That sounds like a preferable option to messing about with Renault seals!!!

Lotus did similar and used a compound from Loctite on the V8 and had all sorts of problems with liner seals. (Interesting though that they then upgraded to hylomar)......however K-series and Lotus V8 - both known for coolant problems with liners and head gaskets.

Before you say it Martin I know, thermal shock on the K-series for mid-mounted stuff coz of the thermostat position but still I know people with Metros who popped the head gaskets

Stick with the proper seals Pete and make the old one the real race engine. While it's out you could do the cams, heads, pistons and wotnot bit by bit and not have to worry about blowing all your money at once.

Before you say it Martin I know, thermal shock on the K-series for mid-mounted stuff coz of the thermostat position but still I know people with Metros who popped the head gaskets

Hey old man, I ain't going to fight the K-Series' corner because it's not a reliable engine. Stupid flaw or not, I seem to keep having the argument that the PRV may not be the most advanced engine in the world, but it is bomb proof and it goes well. What else do you want from an engine? (apart from lighter weight which is why the K-Series ended up in the Elise). parts are expensive and it has silly liner seats, only 12 valves, and it's a 90 degree V6 fudged with split crankpins yadda yadda yadda.

But it's reliable and it goes well.............

The k-series reliability problems come from the very small water capacity and end in blown head gaskets. Theyve nothing to do with the liner seals.

Didn't say it was.... actually it was down to the stat being on the wrong side of the water pump and the plastic locating dowells on the head.

The old engine is now out and stripped down! The cams are out and going off to get a mild re-grind at Kent cams....a little bit of extra lift but almost no extra duration. Have had big trouble getting th fylwheel off...those hex head bolts just wont play ball!!!
Martin....something that might save you some time and potential embarassment....the cams dont come out the back of the engine, they will only come out forwards (i.e. towards the gearbox)....so the removable rear panel on the De Lorean is not going to help much when it comes to camshaft swaps!

peter, my flywheel came off ok, I do not remember and problems but I did have to lock it in place first and use an old torque wrench to get a long leverage on it. Perhaps some penitrating oil or heat "might" help. Or an impact tool?
good luck.

Yes, you shouldnt really have problem, the torque setting for them is quite low..

Martin....something that might save you some time and potential embarassment....the cams dont come out the back of the engine, they will only come out forwards (i.e. towards the gearbox)....so the removable rear panel on the De Lorean is not going to help much when it comes to camshaft swaps!

Now I know why the rear seats fold down on the GTA