atmo clutch problem

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atmo clutch problem

Postby andy001 » Fri Jan 01, 2010 5:41 pm

can any one tell me, the distance or movenent of the cluch pivot arm when the pedal is fully depressed. when the engine is running it won't go in to gear.with the engine off it will select gear, but with the clutch depressed and the starter turning the car is driving forword. i think its weak hydrolics, there is some movement of the arm but i don't know if its reaching its correct position.
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Postby clee » Fri Jan 01, 2010 5:44 pm

11mm minimum
How long has it been sitting ? 6 years ? First job, bleed and renew fluids innit .
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Postby andy001 » Fri Jan 01, 2010 5:53 pm

it seems to be moving about that much, i thought it would have been more. i suppose ill just have to get underneath and give it a good bleed. see if it improoves.
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Postby simontaylor » Fri Jan 01, 2010 7:07 pm

blled a lot of fluid through it, about 500 ml should be good, till it comes through clean. And an ezi-bleed works well too.
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Postby stephendell » Fri Jan 01, 2010 10:27 pm

i suppose ill just have to get underneath and give it a good bleed. see if it improoves.


Bleed from above on Atmo.
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Re: atmo clutch problem

Postby JohnC » Fri Jan 01, 2010 10:33 pm

but with the clutch depressed and the starter turning the car is driving forword

Possibly rust on the first motion shaft spline stopping the clutch plate being released from the flywheel :cry:
1990 GTA Atmo, 2003 Jaguar X type 2.5SE Auto, 2018 Kia Picanto GT-Line-S 1.25
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Postby andy001 » Fri Jan 01, 2010 10:41 pm

why bleed from above stephen dosen't the the atno have the remote bleed pipe like the turbo ?
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Postby Trevor Skedge » Fri Jan 01, 2010 11:09 pm

My guess is just a stuck clutch plate. Getting the engine fully warm will help and then put the car in gear and try starting. When a vehicle has been sat for a long period the plate will stick to the flywheel even if the cover is working properly and can be released usually by the torque of the starter or if there is enough room in the street and the car will drive then keeping a foot on the clutch and blipping the throttle should provide the necessary shock.

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Postby BIG_MVS » Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:45 pm

any luck andy?
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Postby stephendell » Thu Jan 07, 2010 10:32 pm

why bleed from above stephen dosen't the the atno have the remote bleed pipe like the turbo


No it doesn't but there is plenty of access directly from above.

I have a new atmo clutch in stock if it all goes horribly wrong.
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Postby andy001 » Thu Jan 07, 2010 10:34 pm

no luck yet mate, the atmo is outside on the drive with about 10 inches of snow on top of it, so its a stalled prodject at the moment.
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Postby andy001 » Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:41 pm

well its about time i did something with this car. ive ordered carb referb kit,gaskets,o rings, and head gaskets. going to remove carb and inlet manifold and the cylinder heads. get the engine running sweet and then sort out the clutch. sort out the breaks, two new rear tyres, then mot. then its down to the easy bit FULL RESPRAY :D :D :D :D :D
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Postby JohnC » Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:23 pm

Andy,....why not lift the engine out through the rear hatch and do the heads and carbs with the engine out, it will be a lot easier than working over the rear spoiler. Having split the engine and gearbox prior to lift, then the clutch can be inspected and changed if necessary (which I would change anyway) before putting the engine back :wink:
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Postby andy001 » Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:38 pm

ok time to confess, when all the parts arrive, im getting a mechanic friend to sort the engine he'll do it far quicker than me. then ill do the breakes,mot,and paint. looking forward to driving an atmo so we'll see.
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Postby JohnC » Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:22 pm

andy001 wrote:
ive ordered carb referb kit,gaskets

As a matter of interest Andy,.....where have you ordered your carb refurb gasket kits from :?:
1990 GTA Atmo, 2003 Jaguar X type 2.5SE Auto, 2018 Kia Picanto GT-Line-S 1.25
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