rear wheel bearing and gearbox driveshaft seal ,advise

Rear wheel bearing,
Can anyone give me advise as best place to buy the bearings and seal. The nearside one has been making a droning noise since I have had the car and its starting to drive me nuts !! Will it be a relatively easy job ?

Also, I have a bit of gearbox oil leak from the drive shaft seal, anyone got advise on best place to obtain and any tips on changing it.
Thanks guys (in advance), Muffy

Does your drive shaft have a blob of silicone on each end of the spit pins?
The oil can leak out otherwise.

Rear bearing is a bit of a pain as the torx screws invariably refuse to budge or round off or snap bits .It is held with 6 m7 screws and pressed into the hub carrier as well .You will also have to get part of the old bearing race off the hub .....Avoid those splitter/jaws as I've only had success with them once and then the tool was fecked .Best to carefully grind off .
Std Renault fair for 21/25/GTA fronts although it is listed as a different number and I suspect the actual race will be different it is the same fitment .
I think Andy Holt found a French outfit that listed it ........Not available from Renault afaik .
I've always fitted the front type and had no issues .If it OK for FWD 25t then will be good for GTA .

I have several hubs stripped/painted and ready for new bearings + bearings to pop in Sold on an exchange basis .

Gearbox seal is just a fiddly job in situ .Be very careful extracting the old one not to score the bore .It needs careful install as of course any 'tilt' will affect the seal .Needs a drift of a suitable diameter to go in square .
But ...it could be the roll pins so check them first as Simon suggests .

[mettersl]

Mine had a leak from there when bought, it was the roll pins, but I think you need to drift therm out, apply sealer and return....Clee is that right?, I didn't do it myself on this occasion.

Yes, you need to drift them out in a certain position otherwise they hit the casing and jam ...make sure the pin will come out fully beforehand .
Get a drift slightly smaller as you will need to hit it all the way and too tight a drift will jam up and then you'll have to get that out
Clean up the pin and hole .Empty the gearbox .This means you can make sure the whole area is dry when you do the pins and /or the seals .If it the seals then you'll have to drain it anyway ... it will self drain when you take the shaft out and it's horrible messy stuff
But !!!! make sure the filler plug comes out first before you drain the box .

Also the pin will only go in one way .You can be 180 degree out and the holes not be perfectly aligned .It's not as much as a spline out so be sure you have it correct before putting the pin back in .

Thanks for the advise, the leak is def from the seal, the roll pin area is dry, I thought if Im going to have a go at the bearing I'll do the seal at the same time. I maybe giving you a call clee I will see how I get on !! Other than that the car has been realy reliable for the two years Ive had it, It could do with a decent respray at some point, the laqure is starting to flake on the roof, and a few little blisters which might be osmosis!! cheers guys.

The nearside one has been making a droning noise since I have had the car and its starting to drive me nuts !!

Also before you do it jack the rear of the car up. Handbrake off , see if you can rock the wheel from side to side to detect any play.

If you're running Yokohamas esp, check the tread isn't very low. They're big fat rears and suspension bushing is hard, so on certain brands of tyre you get a drone very similar to a worn bearing.

Yonks ago I had the same and had resigned myself to new rear bearings, couldn't detect any play, but changed the worn rears and the noise vanished.

Ive had the car jacked up and tried the wheel for play, I couldn't feel any, its also gone through two MOTs like this !! The drone noise significantly reduces when I go into left hand corners when the weight/ pressure transfers to the right wheel, so Im guessing wheel bearing unless its a drive shaft but they seem ok for play!

I found there is only one way of getting the drive shaft oil seals in correctly and that was to have a seal drift made for me. The Renault one is no longer available.

Also when you have the roll pins out either buy new ones or take the smaller one out of the larger one and remove all old sealant. Tap them back in one at a time with the split opposing each other. Use brake or carb cleaner for a final blast through the pins and then squeeze the white Renualt sealer or its equivalent through the pins leaving a decent blob on both ends.