Rotor Arm

Hi all


After some advise again
Was servicing my Alpine GTA Turbo today (Oil plugs etc) and was changing rotor arm and dizzy cap.

Both the rotor arm and dizzy cap were last replaced by Renault about16 years ago but not done many miles since then.

Anyhow I cant get the rotor arm off. The three allen key head bolts are siezed. I have sheared one off trying to get it off So now I have the decision do I try and get the other two off and risk shearing them or leave the other two for now so I can still drive it and get it somewhere id needed?

Has anyone had this issue before?

Has anyone got any tips for

- Removing the other two bolts ?
- Removing the distributor in order to get these out and fix the sheared bolt?



Any tips if removing the distributor is an option and if so how would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Brad

No real tips as its just one of those things .....small bolts,rounded off .Heat not possible as plastic component .Only way is to get the drive off but that is a bit awkward .Means destroying the arm to get access to the caphead bolt holding the two parts together ,rotor arm drive connects to cam drive spindle.Easier to explain with some pics if you can wait .

Thanks Lee

Yes I can wait for pics. Not driving car a the moment laid up for winter

So am I better off trying to get the final 2 off tomorrow. If they snap then at least I can get the arm off to get access to the caphead bolt . Once I get to the cap head bolt is it possible to remove rest of of bolt?

Well yes,if you can get the rotor off then all the better.Drive will have to come off to extract snapped bolt anyway.I have spare drives worst case .

Thanks ill try the other 2 tomorrow and if they brake then so be it.

An pics and advice that you can supply for removing/replacing drive is most appreciated but no rush.

Is it common for these to sieze / break or is it just because because they have been in there so long?

Thanks Again.

Not that common but not unexpected ,overtightened,long service intervals .

Been 16 years since last done so been a while ;0)

Assume I will have to mark up the drive before removing?

No,has a roll pin location but may be tight fit .All will become clear with a few pics .

Has anyone got any tips for

- Removing the other two bolts ?

Brad, I do not know if you have access to Allen Key bits, but if you have, there is a better chance of removing the remaining bolts with the bit attached to a small "T" bar. See pic below. If the same pressure is applied to both sides of the "T" bar, there is less chance of shearing the bolts. Unlike using an Allen Key where there is a high degree of sideways force on the bolt, the "T" bar method only applies turning force on the bolt. I have posted this tip before but with regard to tight bleed nipples where using a small spanner can create a shearing force on the nipple whereas a small socket and "T" bar again will only apply turning force to it. The same principle applies to your problem.
However, it must be said that if the bolt is seized or completely over tightened, nothing is going to help, but worth a try.

Removing the distributor in order to get these out and fix the sheared bolt?

Just a further thought on this ....... Did the bolt shear just below the head, or where the threaded section meets the flange ?
If it is just below the head, then once the other two bolts have been removed or sheared off, remove the rotor and the remainder of the bolts should be reasonably loose in the flange as the pressure has been taken off them by the shearing off of the heads. Try to just unscrew them by hand .... if a bit tight still, give each bolt a sharp tap with a pin hammer or similar ... this should release them sufficiently to be able to wind them out. If still tight, grip bolts with long nosed mole wrench and wind out.
It would be worth trying this before removing the center bolt holding the rotor flange.
If eventually you do have to remove the flange, perhaps we could ask Lee to let us know what position to turn the camshaft so the key way is at the top, as if the key is loose in its slot, there is a very small risk of it dropping out if pointing downwards .... it should be tight, but I have known them to be loose ..... better safe than sorry.
Have fun.

CORRECTION ..... My reference to "key way" is incorrect, the method of lining up the two parts together is, as Lee said, is with a roll pin. I was getting my info from the parts list which gave me the impression it was a key way. However, I still would bring the pin up to the top before removing the flange so as to see that it stays in position when removing the flange.
Sorry for the misleading info.

Thanks John

"Just a further thought on this ....... Did the bolt shear just below the head, or where the threaded section meets the flange ?
If it is just below the head, then once the other two bolts have been removed or sheared off, remove the rotor and the remainder of the bolts should be reasonably loose in the flange as the pressure has been taken off them by the shearing off of the heads. Try to just unscrew them by hand .... if a bit tight still, give each bolt a sharp tap with a pin hammer or similar ... this should release them sufficiently to be able to wind them out. If still tight, grip bolts with long nosed mole wrench and wind out."[quote][/quote]

First one sheared at the thread :0( So looks like it may have to come out.

Thanks for the tip I will see if I can get a allen key socket and give that a try , but I think these are pretty seized . Been in there for 16/17 years. Cap and rotor dont look in a bad way to be honest but though its about time I replaced them

This happened to my car. And in the end I had to snap off the other two screws. The rotor can then be removed. The triangular holder is held in place by a large allan key bolt. The holder has a locating pin on the rear so it can only be fitted one way. When I did my car I found I had to put the car in gear to stop the engine turning. See Attached photos.

DSCF3518.JPG

DSCF3517.JPG

Thanks

Did the large Allen key bolt come undone ok once in gear ? Does anyone know what size alien key it is ?

Now got 2 rotor bolts sheared off but 3 rd one won't shift or shear. Going to cut the head off tomorrow with a drimel

10mm from memory ,will double check .80Nm when you do it back up and threadlock also .Another issue may be that the two metal parts are stuck together ,timing roll pin sticks and also the general male/female .Worst case you may have to take the ali housing off,2 x 13mm bolts and pull the assembly through the seal .Seal will be knackered after and make sure you dont turn the lump etc whilst it is off for fear of a sprocket popping off cam .

Cut last rotor bolt off tonight and I have undone and removed the allen key bolt that holds the triangular rotor holder. The triangular holder moves out quite away off its pin and then spins freely, but will not come off? So the metal is not stuck together as it comes out enough to spin freely?

Is there anything else that can be holding it on or is it just build up of corrosion? The triangular holder is very very corroded no where near as clean as turbodogs(ill try and include a picture)!


Thanks
Brfad