Bleeding engine

I,m having trouble bleeding my 24vl. engine, as there is no bleed nipples on the thermostat housing etc...then I noticed on reading Clee,s rebuild of Rotbox that the crossover bridge behind the thermostat housing, that linkes the heads, on the 610 had a bleed nipple...anyone have one or know if the bridge from any other Z7X engine, with a bleed nipple, fits the 24vl.

Has your thermostat got a giggle valve?

John C, From what I can remember when I built the motor... NO...it doesn,t make me giggle it makes me f.....g angry.

If it has no jiggle valve (sorry about previous spelling ) bleeding can be difficult due to there being no way of releasing the air back from the rad to the thermostat.
As you fill up with Type D coolant ,... hopefully with the rear of the car raised so the pipes from front to rear under the car are not horizontal, bleeding will take place at the top of the rad, and once that is full, if the stat has no means of letting the air pass out of the return pipe from the rad, there, the airlock sits until such time as the stat opens, but with no coolant around its wax capsule, it doesn't.... there is your problem...... AAMOI the 610 stat had a jiggle valve.
What I have done, and suggested others do also, is to drill a small hole... about 1.5 to 2mm in the stat which will allow the air to be released back up into the reservoir when filling. It will not have any detrimental effect on the running, but it does solve the bleeding problem. (excuse the pun )
Because the hole is very small, filling will also be slow, but if you take your time it should all go well. I actually decant the coolant into 1 liter bottles, and pour in slowly, refilling the 1 liter bottle each time. This allows time for the airlock to bleed away.
Hope this helps.
John