Engine re-build...the joy!

So I needn't have bothered to ident the injectors

Ditto

...Nope...

So I needn't have bothered to ident the injectors

Ditto

Ditto too.

...er.....














...Nope...

Actually that's good news as my injector wiring is not good ,brittle and exposed wire in some places Means I can hack it all off and reblob it What type/rating and where would I get new injector wiring from

Actually that's good news as my injector wiring is not good ,brittle and exposed wire in some places Means I can hack it all off and reblob it What type/rating and where would I get new injector wiring from

Its nothing exotic, 10amp automotive wiring will do. Do do it properly you will need new injector plugs..

Actually that's good news as my injector wiring is not good ,brittle and exposed wire in some places Means I can hack it all off and reblob it What type/rating and where would I get new injector wiring from

Its nothing exotic, 10amp automotive wiring will do. Do do it properly you will need new injector plugs..

Yes ,will do .

It runs again!!!! Well, sort of anyway! It starts and runs but at about 2000rpm with the throttle fully open....I am led to believe that means Ive stuffed up the timing! So tomorrow afternoon I will be attempting to rectify it.
Anyone got any useful ideas on how to set up the timing??? I have a copy of the manual from this site but its completely non sensical when it comes to the timing!
After lining up the various marks and bolts it provides a way of checking that youve done it right (lining up marks on the crank and camshaft pulleys) that does not work.....I thought it was me being useless so I got a neighbour who was a mechanic and he also failed to line up said marks after following the procedure.
The car was previously timed using the chains.....but everyone says its a big no no!

Please say it aint so !!
Use the chain marks then ,it wont be far out will it , it was OK before .

surely you guys made measurement of the cams and chains and marked them up before removal ???

surely you guys made measurement of the cams and chains and marked them up before removal ???

I did But was intending to follow the procedure

DO NOT GO BY THE MARKS ON THE CHAIN!!!

I did this and the cam timing was way out. You have to line up the marks on the cam sprockets and the crank,its not that hard to do,i did mine with the engine in the car.Took me about 6hrs.
It would have been a lot easier if i had used a long straight edge as going by eye proved difficult!

I had lined up the marks and my timing appears to be out! The method in the manual advises lining up bolts, keys, holes all sorts of stuff then tells you to check youve done it right by lining up the marks on the crank and the cam sprockets. Couldnt get the marks to line up using the method, so I just lined them up (as if I was checking it had been done right!) and used a straight edge. The problem with this method is that the cams turn twice for each once of the crank so the marks will line up more than once. Spryboy (what is your proper name???!!!!!) you obviously hit it right first time......I obviously havent!

First name is Neil,(Spryboy is just my nickname).

When i did my cam timing i just used the marks on the sprockets and crank,i didn't use anything else.

Firstly i did bank B,(left bank when veiwed from pulley end),the timing mark on the sprocket was at roughly 11 o'clock as was the crank mark.
After lining the marks up i turned the engine over once so that the sprocket mark was at roughly 5 o'clock as was the crank mark.This made it a lot easier to check the alignment was right with less distance between the two points.

I then repeated this on bank A but with the srocket 180 degrees out from the other cam,ie starting at 7 o'clock on the cam and 1 o'clock ish on the crank.

That's it. So when you recheck it the crank mark needs to be roughly at 11 o'clock and bank B cam will be like wise,then you need to rotate the crank to roughly 1 o'clock and the cam on bank A will be at roughly 7 o'clock.

OK?

I wasn't confused reading the manual but I am now

the cams turn twice for each once of the crank

Thats your problem then - you want the cams turning once for every two rotations of the crank otherwise your valves will be twatting up and down like nobody's business

I have the timing instructions and a nice diagram from the Autodata CD that has come into my posession - can try and wing that over to you if it would be any help - but I should warn you that it seems to use the marks on the chains - the Devil's method!! (maybe its just been knicked from the Renault engine manual anyhow!)

First name is Neil,(Spryboy is just my nickname).

When i did my cam timing i just used the marks on the sprockets and crank,i didn't use anything else.

Firstly i did bank B,(left bank when veiwed from pulley end),the timing mark on the sprocket was at roughly 11 o'clock as was the crank mark.
After lining the marks up i turned the engine over once so that the sprocket mark was at roughly 5 o'clock as was the crank mark.This made it a lot easier to check the alignment was right with less distance between the two points.

I then repeated this on bank A but with the srocket 180 degrees out from the other cam,ie starting at 7 o'clock on the cam and 1 o'clock ish on the crank.

That's it. So when you recheck it the crank mark needs to be roughly at 11 o'clock and bank B cam will be like wise,then you need to rotate the crank to roughly 1 o'clock and the cam on bank A will be at roughly 7 o'clock.

OK?

Neil, don't want to worry you but when you said your car doesnt rev well, was this the same before you did the heads?