Turbo/Manifold support on T2

As anyone got any idea what these rod ends/fittings are called in the GTT pic just trying to think of the best way to support the turbo, think the one in the pics a bit overkill. suppose i could use conventional rod ends from a bracket on the gearbox? the fittings he's used look ok though, but cant put a name to them
Funny thing is i managed o get a proper TDC gearbox support bracket which as the mountings to support the turbo, but theres complications with fitting it, ill explain when its up and running.
[img][img]http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c314/leylandracer/turbosupportrod.jpg[/img][/img]

Brace arms Bling retainers

Steve
Not overkill by a long chalk, use at least two arms to brace the turbo. Rod ends are the best way to achieve, with threaded rod and a strong centre section, use the best, with a high temp rating, even these will not last very long! (I replace mine every 3000 miles as they fail under the high frequency vibration and the heat)
Cheers

Ill be using a proper TDC type bracket on the Turbo/manifold flange Mark, which is meant to attach two supports (Rod ends with threaded rod to the gearbox support bracket which i cant use at the mo) i was thinking of maybe using a third support from the gearbox (Hatch side)
threaded rod any sugestions on the size rod/rod ends and a good place to buy?

Steve
Got my last ones from a bearing supplier, about a £15.00 each. You will need a LH and RH thread type, with a tapped bar (about 10mm dia) as the 'spreader' for each assembly. Think mine are M6 with an M8 through the 'ball'. Don't forget you will need lock nuts as well (LH and RH)as without the vibration will unwind them.

Check with GMS, think they might sell the 'lot' as a kit

Hope all goes well
Mark

Steve
Just looked carefully at the pic in your first post, do not use these devices shown , use proper track rod ends, the 'cup and ball' type do not give enough support and wear quickly. Use 'proper' track rod ends

Tight nuts
M

The dilemma , that's the gearbox/turbo support bracket in the picture, which i have, it bolts on using the bolts between the gearbox and bell housing with the rods leading to another bracket on the turbo/manifold flange, the problem!!!!!!!!!!!!! the bolts come from inside out on the gearbox/bell housing and there isn't enough thread to get a nut on to secure the bracket, it seems the only way is the gearbox out and use longer bolts, so the options are gearbox out and use longer bolts or have some custom brackets made up using rod ends and put the TDC gearbox/Turbo support bracket away until its time for a new clutch or---- just wondering what sort of job it is to take the box out? i have the bumper off and the little panel on the middle and it all looks accessible?
[img][img]http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c314/leylandracer/Supportbracket03.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][img]http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c314/leylandracer/TurboSupport01.jpg[/img][/img]

Steve
To take the box out is an hour job, real easy, I have done a clutch in 3 hours start to finish with no hoist's!.

BUT think pretty as the bracket you are trying to use there are better ways! My bracket runs along the top of the gearbox, using the bolts of the gearbox as the primary support. The rod end joint assemlies now run off left and right at about 60o to the turbo, where they bolt direct to a plate (2mm steel plate) fastned to the turbo.

Not sure if the same will work for you, but the prime objective (of course) is to lock the turbo to the engine, so that it does not 'bounce' , engine has no suitable mounting points as it is behind the turbo, so they used the g'box that is directly underneath and offers the shortest length tie points.

Again your bracket looks great, but those support bars appear very long, so will loose much of the benifit in their flex.

M

Steve
To take the box out is an hour job, real easy, I have done a clutch in 3 hours start to finish with no hoist's!.

BUT think pretty as the bracket you are trying to use there are better ways! My bracket runs along the top of the gearbox, using the bolts of the gearbox as the primary support. The rod end joint assemlies now run off left and right at about 60o to the turbo, where they bolt direct to a plate (2mm steel plate) fastned to the turbo.



M

Think ill go for the gearbox out Mark, any tips
Ill use the TDC bracket seeing i have it but add a extra support to the Turbo.
All been well ill try and start Tomorrow, the bumper and rear panel are already off.

Steve
[img][img]http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c314/leylandracer/Turbobumperoff.jpg[/img][/img]

Sorry Steve, had my head in the asp end of the 310 all weekend, hence no reply. No, no special tips, flip the lower wishbones off, drive the pins from the joints (at the gbox end), shafts off the g'box, g'linkage off, starter off, unbolt from engine (gbox now supported by jack or hoist), g'box mounts off.

Wheel out G'box

Putting back is reverse, and no problem if you do not change clutch, if you do then good luck with the plate allignment, the twins can be pigs.

When back use new drive shaft pins (inner and outer, which you can get from Simon, as they are the same as a 310 4 stud), and seal these off when fitted with a little silicon, or you will leak oil

Have a ball, the 310 is still spitting like a monster, so back to it for me

Cheers
M

Cheers Mark, No chance of having a go Today, but hopfully next week all been well

Steve

slightly off topic...

I've got a slight leak from the gearbox, but its from the casing, looks like it wasnt sealed properly through the middle...

The leak is small though... should i make the effort & fix it up?
or will i end up with more leaks than i started with?

Nate
If it is leaking down the centre line, then it should not be difficult to fix, but you will need to split the box to achieve.

However before you go to all this trouble make sure that the leak is there, and not oil running down side of g,box from shafts etc.

Cheers

I fixed a b;ock-bottom plate leak with some silicone sealer, like the roll pins in the GTA drive shafts. It has held up fine over 2,000 miles. Just make sure it is as clean as possible before application.