injectors

and for anyone who says that putting the air filter in the engine bay is a bad idea "because it gets warm air" needs to be shown some of these figures.... at this speed, the engine is drawing in nearly 230 litres of air every second. I don't think it hangs around in the engine bay long enough to get hot because of the engine! But I digress.)

Nooooooo, Ive seen you write this on another forum Martin.....

So what you saying is, if i have a nice hot engine bay with the bonnet closed, rev the car hard, and then open the bonnet, it should be nice and cool in there as the engine has just sucked through a huge amount of fresh air to replace it?.....i think not...

How do fan assisted heaters work if the air isnt there long enough....?

Dave, Martin did mention an assumption of 100%, which I guess is a gross exageration, so I would assume that the GTA is well within the CC spec of 400cfm.
However I do not see the CC as 100 % efficient, because I did see my CC air temps increase under boost, but no where as much as without the CC.
Also I suspect that that the air filter input is also a folly. "No way" is this a big problem on a GTA because in std trim all air is suppled via the external side vent to the inner rear wing which in no way is heat soaked. However I have a cone filter in the bottom of the rear wing which is well below the exhaust manifolds, so it will not get much heat saturation either as the air is being brawn from under the car.
I need to get a few other bits sorted before my car goes anywhere near one of those sceptical RRs.

Nooooooo, Ive seen you write this on another forum Martin.....

So what you saying is, if I have a nice hot engine bay with the bonnet closed, rev the car hard, and then open the bonnet, it should be nice and cool in there as the engine has just sucked through a huge amount of fresh air to replace it?.....i think not...

How do fan assisted heaters work if the air isnt there long enough....?

I suspect this would be an "agree to disagree" argument. Fan assisted heaters don't shift 230 litres of air every second, and the surface area:volume:heat output of an engine is vastly different from a fan heater, so that's a totaly invalid comparison.

If you open your example engine bay after revving it, you'll be feeling a lot of radiated heat from the engine, which is different from convected heat carried by the air, which I feel pretty damn confident that a constant flow of 230 litre per second over even a hot engine isn't going to make a lot of difference to the intake temp - certainly when compared to the restriction of *some* intake pipework.

This "other forum" is pretty much going to be a DeLorena one isn't it? Well, please remember the DeLorean has an open engine bay with a louvered decklid and a ruddy awful stock intake system. I will continue to preach that the air box drawing from inside the engine bay is very definitely the lesser of two evils on a DeLorean. But I think you'll always find that I state clearly that it is my opinion only.

Nooooooo, Ive seen you write this on another forum Martin.....

So what you saying is, if I have a nice hot engine bay with the bonnet closed, rev the car hard, and then open the bonnet, it should be nice and cool in there as the engine has just sucked through a huge amount of fresh air to replace it?.....i think not...

How do fan assisted heaters work if the air isnt there long enough....?

I suspect this would be an "agree to disagree" argument. Fan assisted heaters don't shift 230 litres of air every second, and the surface area:volume:heat output of an engine is vastly different from a fan heater, so that's a totaly invalid comparison.

If you open your example engine bay after revving it, you'll be feeling a lot of radiated heat from the engine, which is different from convected heat carried by the air, which I feel pretty damn confident that a constant flow of 230 litre per second over even a hot engine isn't going to make a lot of difference to the intake temp - certainly when compared to the restriction of *some* intake pipework.

.

Lol, the whole engine at best might shift 300cfm of air - a couple of 13" engine fans on a rad can shift over 3000 CFM and the air is STILL warmed instantly as it flows through it at that huge speed....and thats with just say moderate water temps...

Change that to air flowing at 10 times lower velocity, over a hot engine block, components over 100 degrees, and exhaust systems from 300-800 degrees......

Don't get blinkered by the impressive figure of 230l/per second, its still CFM, and even 300cfm, means approximately the engine bay area would be 'emptied' of air every 6 seconds, well enough time for it to warm up in the first place, we know you can heat up air instantly just by passing it over an external heat source....but we dont drive around at full throttle/full rpm all the time. In normal driving, midrange and accelleration etc the air is going to be 'in there' for well over 10-15 seconds...but it all matters not as it will be warmed pretty well i about 2!

Maybe to cool our engine bays down, we should put the air filter at the top and the middle of the engine, so its sucks all that nasty hot air in and keeps the engine bay nice and cold..

11.7.1 afr is fine ive noticed some of the quickest gt turbos run high 11s afr and im sure andy cooke advised someone to run around 11.8,im getting the calipers done in the next week or so and hopefully going to the rolling road where lee is going so i will see what it gets then

Martin,what is so bad about the stock Delorean intake?

I was considering using a modified intake manifold on my SC setup!!!

Its not the intake manifold, it's the air ducting into the air box. As standard we have a stupid hot air intake thingy that pipes air from over the exhaust manifold when the engine's cold. The valve that does this reduces the intake to not much more than an inch or so.

AAH, thats ok then as i thought i may have wasted some money!!

The 2.6, 2.8 and 2.5t intakes are basically interchangable. The 3 litre ones are different - inlet ports are higher up the heads.

Don't get carried away with worrying about the charge temps on the rolling road - measure them on the road as the figures on the rollers will be massively different. Mine boiled its charge cooler fluid on the rollers and that holds more than Davids large sausage one (ooh er missus ). On the road it runs 40-50 centrigrade even in the most extreme circumstances. In fact the guy at the rolling road whacked in several more degrees advance with the charge temps high but when I got it back out on the road it detted like mad because there was massive amounts more of cool air now going in. A bit of advance will make the extra power you feel your missing. You could modify the existing TDC pick up so it runs with a couple of degrees more advance.

You could modify the existing TDC pick up so it runs with a couple of degrees more advance.

how do you go about doing this?i might be daring and have a play the car feels fine on the road at the mo although it would be nice to have a bit more poke was having a play with a clio 182 cup last night and now my clutch prob has gone from bad to worse when its in gear and i pull up with the clutch pressed in the car is still trying to pull forward its had a new master cylinder,and was bled when that was fitted and it was a right pain to bleed?any ideas ?

Sounds like the slave cylinder to me. Either that or a balooning plastic line -do you guys get that problem? Lotus and the roginal DeLorean one does - DeLorena owners have beenm replacing plastic lines for stainless braided ones for years.

Advance: You just push the sensor along its plate in a vice, but you have to get to it first! Renault's solution to the unleaded changeover was to simply fit a new sensor that was mounted off-centre on its plate, thus retarding the ignition. You need to push yours along towards the centre of the engine to advance the trigger

I would say its your slave cylinder, if it was the clutch it would slip. Sounds like the clutch plate isnt fully engaging (I had this problem at the start of last year) it could also be a bent clutch fork.
I moved the TDC sensor on my car to advance the ignition before I got the Adaptronic, its entirely hit and miss.....also make sure you move it the right way or you'll retard your ignition. Basically what you need to do is take the TDC sensor off and drill the holes out so it can be moved from side to side (thereby advancing/retarding the timing.)
Ignition advance will make a huge difference to your torque figure...its why you only have the torque you do at the minute....add some advance and you will be astonished by the difference. Not sure you will get the leap forward using the above method though...but its a start!

What Peter said is right but if your clever you can cut an aperture in the rear bulk head and make yourself up a little removeable panel. If you put a timing mark on the front cover you could work out how much you've adjusted the timing with a timing light. The problem area is on spool up at low to medium revs - this is where you'll have the most chance of det.

thanks for the advice peeps,i will look into it but first must get the clutch problem sorted once and for all probably best going martins route and replace the hoses with ss flexi pipes which no doubt is going to be ££££ why is when you get one problem sorted another one appears