Adaptronic ECU Piece of P1ss

I'd start by 30% and work the other way around. In other words, knock it right back so you definitely don't have det, then edge it up bit by bit. I tend to use the interpolate function more than the percentage function. Highlight an area between two or four points, and then tell it to interpolate, and it'll fill in all the values to give a smooth transition across the highlighted cells.

That's easy for you to say ................Where from and to as a general ref ?

It uses the values in the "corners" of the highlighted cells and ignores the rest.

I've given up on that PG map ,it's not working well at all for me ,too aggressive and mega det . I've had a word with Simon and tweaked that last ign map by a 10% reduction across the range ???
Plugged the old ECU in Pikey Piggyback styley

Im back now...

Remember Peters car had the original TDC sensor in a different position as he made it adjustable so the base timing across the whole map is different to a standard GTA.

Bout fookin time numbnuts
Sort a map out for me will ya

Bout fookin time numbnuts
Sort a map out for me will ya

Just play with the master trim in the ignition tab. This will advance or retard the whole map by what ever amount you want to experiment with.

Your car will det compared to Simons\Peters due to the fact your charge temps are so much higher.

If you want, you can go to the air temp ignition trim, and set the timing to retard when charge temps go above 50 degrees for instance. Just try a couple of degrees at a time.

Any info on the std GTA advance ?Adjust the ig trim by ???Fueling should be OK ?
http://www.cldesigns.co.uk/_vti_bin/PGSTLMC1.ecu

Any info on the std GTA advance ?Adjust the ig trim by ???Fueling should be OK ?
http://www.cldesigns.co.uk/_vti_bin/PGSTLMC1.ecu

Use the master trim to correct specific problem points when driving, you can then go to that point in the map, apply the change and move on after resetting the master trim back to zero. Some ECUs give you a little box with a knob to twiddle to achieve the same result. Eg getting knock at 3000rpm, twiddle knob till it goes away, then apply the figure in your ignition map, reset knob to zero, move on.

Of course knock can be caused by lean mixture, so ideally you need that magic lambda feedback, but if you're happy with the existing map being trustworthy, then you can ignore and just play with timing.

Careful using the master trim as a blanket tuning tool because, for example, you will seriously affect idle and possibly even cause it to stall if you retard it too far. When you've finished, you want that master trim to be zero.

Dave's suggestion of retarding with air temp is a good one, as long as you KNOW the map is sound with lower air temps.

I'm ish OK with the map but it's far to for my setup at present .....CC aside .Fueling seems OK ,it pops and bangs on the old ecu like a MOFO round town .
I have a laptop in the post so I don't have to risk the' Wrath-of Dawn '.Once I get that installed in the car and the AFR monitored .........

But hey ,I plugged it in and it works first time DG/Simon's wiring info helped a lot and if you use an old Renix socket it really is a peice of "wee wee" to do .

Made progress of sorts with the install .Martin rode along with the laptop and I've now got a non-deting map but it's a bit down on power compared to the std ecu with bigger injectors .Until I can monitor the AFR I'm not going to "wee wee" about with it .
Odd idle and running sometimes with it on the Adaptronic .One time it'll fire run and go pretty well ,turn off and back on ,it'll go all crap and will not rev .
DG suggested the TDC sensor so I slapped another one on and it does run fine more often than not It will still decide it doesn't want to rev now and then .
Now lads ,don't start but I think I will plonk a cam trigger on .It should be fairly straightforward as there is already a hole ,mirror of the dizzy side .I have another dizzy drive setup and housing so all it needs is a seal ,wheel and sensor .
Will swap the existing turbo oil feed for one off a 25 so that's not in the way and fab up some sort of exhaust bracket as that's in the way also .I'm looking to get a single pipe exhaust with a repackable silencer .

POP it is to get it fitted and running but now the headaches of getting it to run really well .....................I have a new Turbo to fit then will get it RR'd as it stands .If I go armed with all the known issues it may be worth a couple of hours testing to get some answers and highlight a few more issues

Actually I ran a fair bit more advance in the 2500-4000rpm range that "sometimes it runs fine, sometimes it doesn't" had me well and truly flummoxed but rinning a trigger wheel will definitely rule out the one bit *I* have never been happy with (but that's strictly IMO)

Anyway, good lick, car sure is fun anyway with them tyres

It's OK on the std trigger with the std ECU so of course it works so it should work with an aftermarket ECU ..........................If you know what buttons to press I suppose
According to DG the sensor signal is very weak as std ,mayhap the Adapt needs something stronger ???
I dunno ,don't pretend to ,but putting another trigger and sensor on that's better suited to the Adapt will not do it any harm .I can leave the old unit in place and it'll cost about £50 to add the other .
It's all a bit Zen and the art of motercycle maintainence ......................I was going to put some 25T plenums on to site a CC on the nearside shelf but the turbo oilpipes in the way ...........................A ratter evolves by it's own ends ............................

It's OK on the std trigger with the std ECU so of course it works so it should work with an aftermarket ECU ..........................If you know what buttons to press I suppose
According to DG the sensor signal is very weak as std ,mayhap the Adapt needs something stronger ???
I dunno ,don't pretend to ,but putting another trigger and sensor on that's better suited to the Adapt will not do it any harm .I can leave the old unit in place and it'll cost about £50 to add the other .
It's all a bit Zen and the art of motercycle maintainence ......................I was going to put some 25T plenums on to site a CC on the nearside shelf but the turbo oilpipes in the way ...........................A ratter evolves by it's own ends ............................

Not really, as a standard ecu is designed to work with ONLY that system. An aftermarket has to have the sensitivity to work with all types, but not too sensitive to then pick up interference. Its a fine line.

Peters car, Simon Taylors, Tony Smiths, all the Clio Turbo's and R5's we've done, also two R21 Turbos running it, all use the same sensor and trigger wheel tooth system, and all work fine everytime.

Stop dicking about and get a brand new TDC sensor and check those earths!

And like I said previously, try a direct feed from the ECU to the sensor. You might have perished TDC wiring in the engine bay, bad connectors which are just degrading the signal.

If the Adaptronic and this trigger set-up works fine on all these cars, and not on yours, then logically, nothing needs upgrading sensitivity wise in the unit, there is just something amiss in your particular wiring.

Fix it, don't try and get around it

I'm not trying to get round it and I'm not dicking about I'm doing something called thinking .....................
WTF will it run all the time when it does run fine and not go wink because of a dodgy wire or sensor It always works just dandy on the old ECU .
It's like it resets all crap .
I have a new sensor on order and have checked the wiring .I will wire the new fersh to the ecu .

AFAIK .......... PG's went bang then crashed into a tree ,Simon is running the old renix and Tonys given up completely ...................