Rear Tyre Wear

None taken!! I love a bit of banter

Well took my car in to Mitchel Dever tyres today.
To try and sort out my rear tyre wear. And David I have not been missing your posts on this subject but i have wear on both sides just as bad.
Anyway as somebody mentioned adjusting these shims adjusts camber and toe in at the same time. The trouble is to adjust the camber you idealy need to adjust fwd and rear shims (however renault cunningly only fitted shims at the rear) Therefore adjusting these in e.g removing shims will cause more toe out, which will increase inside edge tyre wear.
I was suggested to elongate the upper mounts and pull the wheel out more from the top. Then to come back have it rechecked and adjusted from there. Apparently this is common practice on lots of cars.
Point to note my car is 3.4degrees out from what the books says,
exactly the same on both sides. My car might be this far out because it is low and has large spacers also.


But they did qoute me, £85 each for new rear tyres, not bad or mitch for £134.
235/40 i think .
Dave

http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php? ... b0s183p314

From memory the hub bolt is m14 ? so these may fit .They do a 12 and a 14 .

Lee,
I take it these are smaller diameter than standard with a lobed collar?
However the tracking guy, reckons i need to adjust as a minimum 5mm.

Then again anything would help.

Yep that's it ,eccentric is the word I believe
I don't think there's enough meat in the arm to get 5 mm though .I'm droping the subframe out again so will have a good look at what can be done .Will be easier to do that than try an put the engine back in topside .

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z110 ... 001-61.jpg

Another solution would be, to grind back the outside radius lip of the top arm where the suspension strut and hub attach. elongate the hole, possibly completly. Then attach a steel stretched plate to incorporate the shock bolt as well.
ON both sides this would insure the integrity remained.

Lee from your pic above excuse copy right, it would be just above and to the left of the part you have circled.
Dave

Yep, good idea ........green is bolts ,red ,bored out existing hole ,blue ,new adjuster plate .

Yep thats, it in a nutshell.
Dave

Yep, good idea ........green is bolts ,red ,bored out existing hole ,blue ,new adjuster plate .

i am currently doing this myself!

did'nt steal your idea but i was just watching to see what you would come up with.

This is a camber adjustment prototype setup.



Ignore the length of the bolts, they are just for testing.

As you can see, the back bolt (long one in pic) installs instead of the shock lower bolt, and the shorter bolt goes in place of the top hub bolt. The original wishbone hub hole needs to be elongated, so that the hub bolt can slide back and forth by your adjustment of the threaded inserts connecting the lot together.

A simpler solution would be to use heavy duty threaded spherical rose joints/rod ends, instead of the custom fabricated blocks and twin tapped studs/threads.

The only issue I have with further production of this, is the cost is about the same as having a whole new asjustable wishbone made up of billet ali, so its swings and roundabouts.

You don't want it swinging on roundabouts ........................

You don't want it swinging on roundabouts ........................

The problem is Dave.
It does not look like we will have enough land left if we elongate the holes.
The wheel alignment man said to me you need at least 5mm more like 10mm+.
Here lies the problem.
When i have a moment i will measure up how much could me elongated and if a new arm or welded on portion is necessary.
Dave
Anyway where could i get a set of custom ones from?

The problem is Dave.
It does not look like we will have enough land left if we elongate the holes.
The wheel alignment man said to me you need at least 5mm more like 10mm+.
Here lies the problem.
When i have a moment i will measure up how much could me elongated and if a new arm or welded on portion is necessary.
Dave
Anyway where could i get a set of custom ones from?

C'mon..., I have already plotted the geometry on a suitable software package! . If you lower the car say 40mm, it brings the top of the hub in around 8mm from standard. On the standard wishbone there is a good 13mm of material from the outside edge of the hole, and that is still without having to remove the rolled over lip so the structural integrity is still there.

C'mon..., I have already plotted the geometry on a suitable software package!

You wont get much change out of £500 to get a pair of billet ones done ..........Ohh and plus another £500 for the bushes ,bolts etc .They would be fully adjustable but like with your shocks ,how many times have you altered the settings since ????

Or about £50 for the stretch plates and some longer bolts .Once you get the camber set you can weld a washer to the plate and job's a good-un .