Rear Tyre Wear

When I looked into billet ones, I was specifying using spherical rod end bearings inner and outer, so no need for the original Renault bushes, and yes, about £250 a side, but very good, and fully adjustable.

.They would be fully adjustable but like with your shocks ,how many times have you altered the settings since ????

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Geometry is a complete different ball game tho as there are all different settings depending on what width and offset wheels people run, tyre profile and width, and then ride height. As with my mates that drift, they have their alignments set up every couple of months, as it does go out, and the smallest corrections can make the car handle very differently. It would be nice to have a perfect setup.

I know what you mean ,if you're selling a few ,it would be far better but I don't think you would .You need to be a bit more hands on with plate idea ,but I'm sure you could get the alignment dudes to either mark it up or even weld a fixing once they've got it set to the individual car .

[mettersl]

How small an increment would you need to adjust by to keep in the target window? 2mm, 1mm??
How many versions would be needed to give the likely range of adjustments, in steps to keep you in the ideal range?.
If you have adjustable, you always have the risk of slippage. Plates seems safer and less prone to slippage/wear..
Lee's plate idea seems quite smart (low tech, and I like low tech solutions). If there are only a few choices we might be able to get a batch made between us?

Dave M's idea .

I could get them knocked up for very little .It's a bit of a faff but I could get a slotted unit made that we all can use as a test gauge/jig .Put some rule marks on it ,give me the figures for your car and I can drill the hole in the right place .Or once the first unit is tested let me know how much movement you need and I can do same .You would still have to bore out the existing hole first though ,so no going back

I know what you mean ,if you're selling a few ,it would be far better but I don't think you would .You need to be a bit more hands on with plate idea ,but I'm sure you could get the alignment dudes to either mark it up or even weld a fixing once they've got it set to the individual car .

I had already considered a plate idea previously, (by the way, it would need two bolts in the side, one for the shock and another to stop the whole plate pivoting upwards - unless its welded), but the problem is actually trying to set up the alignment on a bed.

If you look at any other adjustable arms, they are all threaded or rotation based, ie, a spherical rod end is wound out with a spanner against all the load of the wheel, hub weight of the car etc. Again, with adjustable offset cam camber bolts, you rotate the bolt with a spanner, and this pushes the hub out to the desired position as you rotate it. Leverage with rotation etc...

With plates in the side, and the car on the ground with all its weight, you would need to 'pull' out the top of the wheel in order to get it to correct camber and then nit up the bolts (and hope they don't slip under load) and then take a reading. Very difficult, if impossible.

Something like this

H section billet, either ally or steel, with the standard setup at the outer end with the shock and hub (longer bolts needed due to the thickness of the arm) and then two adjustable rose joints incorporating spherical bearings which mount onto the rod which already goes through the old wishbone. The only null point is is that there is more strain on the centre of the rod than on the outside of it near the subframe mounts, but if its billet then it could be machined in a A frame pattern as per the original.

I see what you mean .The way round it is ,get the car checked out first to see how much is needed , slot the existing hole ,not bore out ,then supply a custom plate ....................Still ,could do that for under £500

C'mon Lee, your the milling geeza, how much would it cost to get those knocked up in aluminium?. The rose joints are off the shelf items, it basically will be just a lump of alli, with 4 holes, and two tapped holes..nothing fancy

I see what you mean .The way round it is ,get the car checked out first to see how much is needed , :

Nope, you can't do that neither... Say the wheel is 5 degrees too much camber - unless you know all the wishbone lengths, angles, all the complex geometrics of it (ie you need moddeling software) you won't know how much to lengthen the arm by.

For instance, if the wheel is 10mm further in at the top than it used to be, it doesnt mean you lengthen the top arm by 10mm, it could be 4mm or 6mm, it all depends on shed loads..

Just so everybody knows what Im talking about when i mention 'rod ends'

I'll ask
About £75 in materials/arm I reckon ,good quality Ali's not cheap nowadays .£30 for the rose joints ? 3 to 4 hrs machine time, less once jigged ,£120 .Anodized gold and ART engraved logo ????? I'll throw in the CAD design FOC

It's all do-able but would anyone buy a set ? ..............I could get it done for meself in favours but I need an engine first

I'll ask
About £75 in materials/arm I reckon ,good quality Ali's not cheap nowadays .£30 for the rose joints ? 3 to 4 hrs machine time, less once jigged ,£120 .Anodized gold and ART engraved logo ????? I'll throw in the CAD design FOC

It's all do-able but would anyone buy a set ? ..............I could get it done for meself in favours but I need an engine first

Well the other option is steel, cheaper in materials, but going to be heavy, (though you could slim the design down to lose weight due to the increased strength) and more tool wear for machining.

Id buy a set.

Just had a measure up, another way it could be done cheaper is with the H frame version I drew above, but not billet machined, but welded solid square section. Yes, the rod ends are further in than the factory ones, but if the whole wishbone was say 150mm wide, then its not far off the original width, so I don't see the loading as a problem..

Then you could use off the shelf 25mm solid square section, cut to length, but the middle H bar would need to be welded. But it saves the cost of buying an expensive initial billet and wasting half of it, and there are no CNC machining costs involved, other than the drilling and tapping.

For instance..you could get a pair of wishbones out of a 1000mm length

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stainless-Steel-S ... dZViewItem