Driveshaft split pins

Renault & Alpine General Discussion
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I dont want anybody to share a tent with

Postby si21 » Wed Apr 02, 2008 4:57 pm

clee wrote:That's why no one wants to share a tent with him :shock: :wink:


Thats why I got my old traffic cant be arsed with tents anymore can you be ARSED :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

not that its me thats asking :lol: :lol: :lol:

si21 DELL IS SO DEAD :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Postby clee » Wed Apr 02, 2008 5:00 pm

I say it's an abuse of power :evil: What else can he do/see ?? Can he access those PMs you sent me about CAR membership ?? When do we vote for Club President ?
Is DELL anglo-saxon for Mugabe ???
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LOL

Postby si21 » Thu Apr 03, 2008 5:10 pm

clee wrote:I say it's an abuse of power :evil: What else can he do/see ?? Can he access those PMs you sent me about CAR membership ?? When do we vote for Club President ?
Is DELL anglo-saxon for Mugabe ???


RAOTFPMSL :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: si21
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Postby Stunned Monkey » Thu Apr 03, 2008 7:34 pm

I reckon the forum should be moderated myself Image
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Postby Juzzblack » Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:15 pm

clee wrote:Easy to do .Slacken the hub nut ,knock the split pins out ,remove the upper hub mount bolt and pivot the shaft out from the box ,then take the hub nut off and pull the shaft out .
There are two split pins ,one 6 mm and one that goes up it's chuff ,about 3 mm .
You might want to look a the gearbox seals at the same time .
Remember to fill the split pins with sealant when they're back in .


Anyway, back on topic... :roll:

Cheers Lee. Do I need to remove the brake caliper too or can I get away without having to?

And what sealant do you use on the pins?

Cheers.
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Postby clee » Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:20 pm

I would think so ,can't see it getting that much in the way .Dunno as I've only done them when the calipers were off .I just used some high temp gasket stuff I had lying about .
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Postby simonsays74 » Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:22 pm

juzz, spray some brake cleaner over the cv joint to clean off any old oil.

make sure your pins are new or cleaned out from any old sealer.

i use silicone sealer pumped through the pins until it come through the other side.

seal each end with a small blob.

job done!
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Postby simontaylor » Thu Apr 03, 2008 10:51 pm

simonsays74 wrote:i use silicone sealer pumped through the pins until it come through the other side.


VERY important to clean the pins..... otherwise the sealer could start to emerge from the gearbox breather too after a while of pumping.
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Postby Stunned Monkey » Thu Apr 03, 2008 10:54 pm

:shock: that'd take a tube or three.... :lol:
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Postby Juzzblack » Fri Apr 04, 2008 5:39 pm

I've bought a box of new pins. Thanks for the tips all. :D
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Postby Juzzblack » Thu Aug 07, 2008 8:55 am

Er, I'm finally getting round to doing this today... :oops:

A couple more questions if you please: :D

After changing the shaft, the Renault manuel says: 'Place the vehicle back on it's wheels and adjust the suspension before torque tightening the bushes.' Is the suspension going to be all out of kilter and need adjusting afterwards? :(

What's the easiest way of undoing the drive shaft nut, because I don't have the special tool the manuel mentions?

Will the gearbox oil need topping up much afterwards? What oil is best to use in the gearbox and what's the easiest way to top it up. Access is a bigger; I think I remember someone saying it's best to top it up from a long tube leading up into the engine bay. What size tube would I need?

If anyone knows the answers to any or all of these questions it's mucho appreciated! :D
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Postby clee » Thu Aug 07, 2008 9:38 am

Not much you can adjust suspension wise so I wouldn't worry .Just re-torque the shock and hub bolts .
Put it in gear ,handbrake and chock the fronts ......... and a big lever :twisted: They's not on that tight .
You shouldn't need to top up that much but I'd renew the oil whilst you're there anyway if it hasn't been done recently , you'll have better access with the shafts out the way .
I've used a long tube up past the turbo attached to a small funnel before to fill the box ,it takes ages though as you've got 3 liters to shift .Got a big syringe now it's harder work but a hell of a lot quicker .
I've had a few people say to use the Renault std for the gear oil .It's an 80w from ECP or you can get a 75w/80 from Halfords .It's better for the syncros apparently .
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Postby BIG_MVS » Thu Aug 07, 2008 9:40 am

Juzzblack wrote:Er, I'm finally getting round to doing this today... :oops:

A couple more questions if you please: :D

After changing the shaft, the Renault manuel says: 'Place the vehicle back on it's wheels and adjust the suspension before torque tightening the bushes.' Is the suspension going to be all out of kilter and need adjusting afterwards? :(

What's the easiest way of undoing the drive shaft nut, because I don't have the special tool the manuel mentions?

Will the gearbox oil need topping up much afterwards? What oil is best to use in the gearbox and what's the easiest way to top it up. Access is a bigger; I think I remember someone saying it's best to top it up from a long tube leading up into the engine bay. What size tube would I need?

If anyone knows the answers to any or all of these questions it's mucho appreciated! :D


I used a big screwdriver through the brake disc, plus the handbrake and foot brake on (you need an assistant for this) to take the driveshaft bolt off. A bit Heath Robinson and no doubt does the vent on the disc no favours but it worked. Like you say I do not have the proper tool either.

I changed the gearbox oil at the same time, it will need topping up. We did have the correct tool this time though (a pump basically) so do not know about the top up throught the engine bay method. I'll dig the reciept out for the oil we used.
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Postby Juzzblack » Thu Aug 07, 2008 10:14 am

Cheers chaps. I just bought some SAE 75/90 from Motorworld. Should do the job I think.
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Postby clee » Thu Aug 07, 2008 10:27 am

Juzzblack wrote:Cheers chaps. I just bought some SAE 75/90 from Motorworld. Should do the job I think.


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