Handbrake Probs

The actuator arm cam recess rotates off center ,so the cam needs to move so that the small end is always line with its seating .It's rounded both ends so the same force is exerted through the two centers .
I know what I mean ,but it's early .I'm sure John can put it more succinctly .

... why does Alpine/ Renault use the 'cam plunger'?

I cant answer that I`m afraid, but a thought does occure to me, why dont you try sourcing a secondhand one, if you dont want to go to the trouble of repairing the original, the only thing that you would have to do is bleed that line having fitted the replacement. If you are selling the car, your likely to have to reduce the price by more than the cost of just replacing it. Then someone might buy your old one, who wants to replace a siezed one, but is prepared to switch over the H/B mechanism. Just a thought

I'm sure John can put it more succinctly .

You`ve got to be joking, I`ve just been staring at the diag on thr right in the diag, and cant work out why when the actuating lever cam profile (7) is turned, I assume clockwise, it does not just push the cam plunger over



It might have been better if I had seen one in the flesh

Over to you Lee

The retaining spring 9 hooks under the actuator arm on either side of the cam .This limits the movement of the actuator .It is shown in the wrong position on the diagram ,the right hand hook shape will be under/in the same recess that locates the cam .

why dont you try sourcing a secondhand one, if you dont want to go to the trouble of repairing the original, the only thing that you would have to do is bleed that line having fitted the replacement.

Yes I was kinda thinking that myself... Anyone got a whole unit they want to sell? Also the whole unit looks abit marked and worn anyway...

The retaining spring 9 hooks under the actuator arm on either side of the cam .This limits the movement of the actuator .It is shown in the wrong position on the diagram ,the right hand hook shape will be under/in the same recess that locates the cam .

Thanks Lee

I think I have it now going back to the pic, when tool 514 is removed, plunger cam 8, settles into the inverted "L" shape longitudinal groove in excenteric shaft 7, at its Rt angle. When shaft 7 is rotated clockwise, it applies pressure to the pads via (LH pic) cam 8, assembly 6, and finally piston 2.
The plunger cam 8, is held laterally in place by the spring either side of it. The spring being hooked up under the shorter side of the inverted "L", is there to release the pressure on the cam 8, when handbrake it released. I assume there is some form of stop built into the casting to stop the shaft 7, from turning anticlockwise.
.......Am I there yet

Cheers
John

Yep ! petty much .Except there's nothing to stop the actuator from being turn to far anticlockwise So you can ,and I have , turn it to far and the cam pops out

.Except there's nothing to stop the actuator from being turn to far anticlockwise So you can ,and I have , turn it to far and the cam pops out

Thanks again Lee, Interesting. Sooooo.... dont push the actuator levers back from their rest positions, ie:- if you are checking that the hand brake has released fully. If nothing else this is an extremely good exercise culminating in usefull bit of information for us

dont push the actuator levers back from their rest positions, ie:- if you are checking that the hand brake has released fully. If nothing else this is an extremely good exercise culminating in usefull bit of information for us

Abit late for me though! Think I was lucky that I didn't dislodge the otherside as I was giving both sides a good old 'bashing' to check it was in its correct position and hadn't seized up!

Well, on closer inspection the cam plunger is still there but precisely what has been said it has become dislodged:-
1) either by forcing the levers back too much
2)or by adjusting it too much - can it get dislodged by this?
or 3) which I suspect is the truth is that the cam was already dislodged in the first place hence poor handbrake performance

I am wanting to get the whole caliper off, then I can see exactly what is going on with it and how it is meant to sit etc...I too can't seem to envisage the poisition and exactly how it is held in properly(and stays in) but if I can see it will make sense I think.

Started taking it off but cannot seem to work out how the handrake cable un attaches from the caliper, right near where the brakehose goes into the caliper. It is enclosed in a kind of metal sleeve near the cable end. How do I get this off?- can't seem to see any screws / bolts etc...

Also the brake hose is proving difficult to unscrew- don't really want to have to cut it as the hose is okay condition- fittings 14mm spanner size? Seems to be but my open ended spanner has started to round the edges and if I am not careful will have to cut the thing and then get it out in a vice and buy a new hose.... hmmn

The handbrake cable end that sits in the actuator arm ,yes ?It just needs pulling out .Hand brake off ,pull the lever towards yourself and prise the cable end out .Brute force is normally required .Once you break the thread seal on the hose it should screw out easily , just soak it for a while ,WD or pen oil .

Further to Lee`s info. these diags might be of interest to you.



As an aside, bottom right pic on second diag says it all, found it by chance looking for the hand brake detach info, but I fully understand it now, pity I did`nt find the pic before, would have saved my brain from going into overdrive over this
Hope this helps

Yes, me too am understanding (justabout) the diagram. ... strange how all these pieces are making the handbrake work... strange angles... still don't understand why they couldn't have done away with the cam plunger altogether but I expect Lee is going to explain!! yet I can understand the diagram somewhat..... (justabout)

yea probably the only problem is that the cam plunger has popped out..
yea, the whole unit is abit messy, looks marked and I haven't helped matters by forcing stuff and being abit heavy handed!?

Well anyway, at least I am understanding it(justabout)... gotta get it off... get it in a vice and somehoiw get the plunger back in... without tool 514!

I managed to get the whole thing off- the handbrake cable was well sealed... the hose was well in place- too well.... Anyway eventually got them off without rounding the fittings (too much)

Then what a job getting the cam plate back in without the tool! ... eventually managed to do it with vices/ clamps and making up my own tool 514-using a bolt and a clamp and all sort of made up nonsense..- took about 2 hours to get it back in... then I was happy.. only to realise I forgot the spring Aah, the joys of mechanics...

Took it all out again and then had to do it all again.. even harder with the spring in there... eventually I did it.. just gotta put it all back on and hopefully it will work well I damn well hope so.... As was said maybe put some new pads in at the sametime as I got it all off yet the ones on there don't look too bad but I guess it is nice to have nice new ones as they will last longer.....

Yea I guess I understand the brake assembly abit more now than I did... hmmn.... thanks again for all the help...

moral of this sad story is... don't adjust the handbrake cable up too much and certainly don't go tapping the arm back... Think the cam plate is more likely to pop out by tapping arm back than adjusting but both should be done with caution, especially 'tapping'-(forcing!) the arm back.

If you have the same problem as I - probably best to take the cover off- lean under it and manually inspect that the cam plate is in place before bashing the arm etc... Generally I do not think it is a good idea to fiddle with the arm at all.... the plate is fairly easily dislodged. Also if not sure that your cam plate is in place then compare to the otherside before making any silly moves...Generally a bad idea to FORCE the arm back- easily dislodged.. also adjust with care-- stick with the 7 notches (clicks) as is recommended in the manual....

. As was said maybe put some new pads in at the sametime as I got it all off yet the ones on there don't look too bad but I guess it is nice to have nice new ones as they will last longer.....
.

Well done glad to see you have got there, but if you are selling the car, and the old pads are in reasonable condition, I would put them back as new pads will take a bit of bedding in and it may take a bit of driving to get new pads working well especially if the discs are not in perfect condition

Hi john- yes HOPEFULLY selling the car- its a LHD and obviously the value is higher in France- yes hopefully soon sell - really it is crazy here what GTA's are going for- that black one on Ebay for £1,250-- I mean it didn't sound TOO bad... maybe a new post on this topic as it is somewhat off subject of 'handbrake probs'...

thanks much again for the help and yes if I do change the pads I will bed them in before the poor buyer kills himself at 145mph!!!

Yea- nasty job this cam plate and hopefully when I get it put back on handbrake and brakes are good .... Alpines are great cars but you got to have the time to keep them all good... ? well that's what it seems like...