electronic door lock

Hi JohnC - could you confirm something for me pls? My diagram looks the same as yours but is differently numbered. I take it 25 and 26 on yours are the central locking motors (marked as 135/136 on mine)? The descriptions are "front door solenoids" in my book - I think my book is wrong. My previous page has a couple of components described as "front door locking motors" but they only have two connections. I assume now these are the door release actuators. Would make much more sense as I couldn't suss how the locking motors would work with only two wires. Had me more than a little confused yesterday.

Hi scottydog
In my book, 25 and 26 are called "Door opening motor", and uses the same number ,25 and 26, in both the door locking cct diag and the door opening cct diag, a bit confusing. However for clarity, I would call 25 and 26 "Door opening motors" (two connectors) in the Door Opening cct diag, but would call them "Locking/Unlocking actuators" (five connectors) in the Door Locking cct diag, as the unit contains more circuitry than just motors. I only have photostats of ccts for the Atmo, but I seem to remember the book they came from was for 1990 Model Year. Your numbers may be different if taken from another Model Year. Just checked 135/136 in component list in my book, and numbers do not exist. French Electrics

John

Thanks John. Mine's a 1986 book.

BTW - think French electrics are bad? Try Italian My X1/9 is OK'ish but I had a Laverda bike that melted wires and connectors because they were under spec'd. Also they changed the engine from 650cc to 750cc and didn't upgrade the starter motor so there wasn't enough current in the battery to start the bike if it stood for more than a couple of days. That's when there wasn't something wrong with the electronic ignition of course!

Still cant figure out that if the dash switch and the key operates the actuators ok then how could the passenger actuator be at fault?
Can anyone else confirm if when unlocking the passenger side it also unlocks the drivers door

My train of thought is to do the following:
Change the FOB's batteries (even though mine shows the LED lit when pressed)
Remove front part of roof to gain access to the Rx and clean the connectors
Check out the wiring in the foot well area.

If that doesnt sort it then I'll also remove rear nearside trim and clean up the connectors as well.

[quote="pgoldsmith"]Still cant figure out that if the dash switch and the key operates the actuators ok then how could the passenger actuator be at fault?
Can anyone else confirm if when unlocking the passenger side it also unlocks the drivers door
[quote]

Hi Paul
Just to be on the safe side, I have just been out to my GTA to check that both doors lock/unlock from each side, and I can confirm that they do.
As to your first question, the reason that they work from the dash, is because both motors in the actuators are OK and the trigger for the relay is being produced by your pressing the button on the dash.. However in each actuator there is what I would call, a pulse generator, which produces a pulse to the relay when you operate the key. Therefore when you turn the key to lock, a pulse will be sent from pin 1 of the actuator, to the relay, which tiggers a timed pulse,( 1<2secs ) which is sent back to both actuators, locking the doors. Turn the key to unlock, a pulse will be sent from pin 4 to the relay, which triggers a timed pulse to both actuators, unlocking the doors. According to your discription of the fault :- "When inserted in the drivers door it locks and unlocks both doors. However, when you turn the key in the passengers door then only the passenger door locks or unlocks" So what I assume is happening, is that when the key is in the passengers door and turned, the key mechanically unlocks that door, (that makes sense as if the battery was flat, and you relied on the electrics to open the door, you would never get in ) However if the pulse is not produced in the passengers actuator when you turn the key on that side, the drivers door would not lock/unlock. Which is what I understand you are implying in your quote. Just in case there is confusion by the fact that the pulses go back to both actuators, it matters not that a pulse is coming back to your operating side, as the lock is operated mechanically, for the reasons I give above.
I would not worry too much about your remote at the moment, that has now become the secondary fault which we can go into after we have fixed the door locking prob.
I have just reread your first question in your quote, and it looks to me to me to contradict your original quote. "The dash switch and the key operates the actuators", I understood that the key in the passengers side would not lock/unlock the drivers door. Can you confirm what exactly is the fault we are trying to help you with.
John

Sorry John, when I said the key operates the actuators ok I should have been more clearer.
I meant to say the key in the drivers' side operates the actuators.

My actual faults are:
> the key fob is inoperable
> the key , when inserted in the passenger door, only unlocks / locks the passenger side.


My simply thinking was that if the dash switch opens both doors, then the motors / actuators must be operating working ok and the fault was elsewhere. I think the complication (on my part) has come from the fact I have two faults . One is the keyfob not working and two, these pulse generators and the fact that both sides should produce an opening / closing pulse when a key is inserted and turned.

I presume the pulse generators are an integral part of the actuator

I'll remove the nearside trim and check the connections are good and try to prove that pulse signals are not being generated on the passenger side.

I'll remove the nearside trim and check the connections are good and try to prove that pulse signals are not being generated on the passenger side.

Good man, let us know how you get on.
John

I'll remove the nearside trim and check the connections are good and try to prove that pulse signals are not being generated on the passenger side.

PS. Remember to check what indication of a pulse you get from the good one (drivers side) first, and assess the size of the kick, as it is possible there is a smaller one on the passengers side which is too weak to trigger the relay, or none at all hopefully!!!

Hi Paul,
How are you getting on with your door locking problem? If you have not had a chance to get back to it, I have had a further thought on your problem. We have established that both locks work from the dash switch, but do they both work when operating the push/pull buttons just inside the rear side windows? As if they do, the locking solenoids (not motors) are both OK, and the fault lies with the mechinical linkage between the key barrel and the solenoid actuator. However if the fault still exists when operating the buttons, then it is the lock solenoid at fault. I notice you are trying to obtain "Door actuators or remote Rx", remember that the rx is coded and paired with its key fob, and both would be required together. Also note that even if the LED in the key fob lights up, all that proves is that the power is being supplied to the fob cct, it does not prove that the coded pulses are being transmitted. I have 2 keyfobs for my GTA, one obtained from a writtenoff Clio, in which I was able to change the code to match my rx, and in doing so noticed that one worked at a greater distance from the car than the other, fault was traced to a leaky 10micro farad electrolitic capicator in the fob, which when replaced, worked the same as the other. I have also drawn out the cct for the rx, for future reference. So whenever you like we can get on and check out your remote locking problem, as I am sure that between us we can get it up and running again.

John

Just for closure (pardon the pun).
Found out today that the cause of my remote locking problem is a dickie photo diode in the remote key fob.
Looks like dry joints are to blame.

Cheers for all the advice esp, JohnC

Paul

Does anyone know where i can get a replacement fob and possible a spare one. I haven't got one to begin, so i kind of need one.

I think anywhere that fits car alarms should be able to supply replacement key fobs. I think they just unscrew the fob to get the alarm code printed inside. I vaguely remember getting two new key fobs this way when I had a Mercedes 190E.

One Problem. I havent even got the original. Any ideas?

Does anyone know where i can get a replacement fob and possible a spare one.

I would have thought a car breakers yard, and look for a Mk 1 clio fob, it is exactally the same and you can reprogram your self. Let me know if you get one and I will tell how to do it

ace john, thanks for the help. will let you know what happens.

ace john, thanks for the help. will let you know what happens.

I have just had this awful feeling....... I take it we are talking about a GTA, and not a 610Alp, if so this is the GTA one, in case you have to go hunting



John