GTA turbpo clutch slave cyl removal - turbo off

Hello All

From all accounts I need to remove the turbo in order to get to the clutch slave cylinder. Have lost all clutch pressure and there is no weeping visible at master cylinder. Am fairly sure it must be the slave cylinder but I'm loathe to remove the turbo to find there is nothing wrong with the slave. I guess I have no option though!!!

Two questions:

1) I think you are supposed to modify a ring spanner in order to get at certain bolts. Is this basically making your own version of tool # Mot.909? What would you use for this modification? - a bench grinder?

2) New nuts are required for the exhaust I believe. What about seals? I imagine there are some that require renewal. Can anyone advise here?

Cheers

Have you tried bleeding it first?

Save losing knuckles taking the turbo off.

Not uncommon for it to boil when it is so close to the turbo and you lose the clutch.

Is there plenty of fluid in the Brake/Clutch resevoir? Did I not read on this forum that if the level drops due to say, a leak in brake system, you loose the clutch first due to the take off pipes being at different levels on the resevoir......just a thought, but worth checking

Ignore the manual regarding turbo removal .Getting the 4 big nuts off is a real pain even with the special tool .
Disconnect all the relavent oil/water/actuator pipes as per the manual and the exhaust downpipe .There are no seals on the downpipe only a nut retaining flange ,I've re-used the nuts quite a few times now and they still do the job .You will need to get some new oil feed and drain gaskets tho .
Then undo the three bolts/nuts that hold the turbo mounting plate to the rear of the inlet manifold .This will allow the whole turbo assembly to come out ,you sort of roll it out after its off the inlet manifold bolts .
Watch out for the oil drain pipe ,this gets in the way a bit .

Then you'll see the slave and it's a 10 min job to swap that over .......

Make sure you clean the oil feed and drain mating surfaces but watch out for any shite falling into the turbo especially the turbo top .Put new gaskets on .You also want to run a tap down the threads on the oil flange retaing bolts .This will make it easier to get the bolts back in .The real pain is the rear bolt on the oil drain This will either take 5 mins or an hour to screw back in .
Prime the turbo before you fire it up ,pull the knig lead and crank it a bit .....

Guys sorry to drag up an old post! I am looking to remove the turbo soon to replace the slave. I have been battling with a clutch pedle that hits the floor only when the car is hot and has been sitting for a few minutes for a year or so now. If I pump the peddle a couple of times it is fine again. I tried getting the slave out without removing the turbo last year with no luck. Anyway I am no going to bite the bullet and remove the turbo.

The question I want to ask is - I have a slave reseal kit but should I reseal it ( could the piston be pitted) or just buy a new slave from Simon Auto (as I need to order some turbo oil drain and feed gaskets from him anyway)

By the way. There is no sign of a leak from the slave or master and no fluid is lost? But when I bleed the system the fluid is black so I assume the seals have degraded in the slave?

Thanks
Brad

I'd put a new one on .

Thanks Clee.

I'll order a new one along with the gaskets from Simon Auto, unless they are availbel from somewhere else?

Gaskets from any turbo outfit .Ebay will have them .T3 type .
Brakes international used to sell the slave ,not sure if they still do .

Just had a look and they list one but looks like the Atmo version only .