Is this an MOT failure ?

my colleagues and i repaired a gta with the same damage when i worked at renault leeds if you want all the answers just give me a call any evening.

http://www.renaultalpineownersclub.com/ ... =wheelarch

Thanks Lee for that thread, I'm suitably depressed now

I do think that some object must have got thrown up, as I noticed a streak of underseal has been gorged out just below where the crack / hole was - see below.




[/img][img]



I've decided to do what Andy001 suggested, which is to repair the damage on the inner wing, paint the area where the bracket has moved and monitor it to see if it moves any more.

Also considering using some 'liquid metal' to fill in where the lip of the box section has lifted. May or may not help it to stay put.
I've also applied underseal to the whole inner wing plus the small box section.

I think a strut brace of some sort would be a good way of preventing any futher troubles, as this box section isnt going to get any better!
Simon Auto's looks like it's designed to be used on a car without a engine cover - as I cant see how the bar can be accommodated in the small araea between engine and cover.

My advice is don't!

When it moves again, and it will unless you secure the top of the turret to the box section, it will distort further, rip the fibre-glass again and break the 'parcel shelf' as the bracket gets pushed up into it.

If the box section is that bad I'd be tempted to make up a new box section and insert it inside with holes cut in a similar place to allow the turret to be bolted through. Basically this would act as a liner and you'd really just need to then bond it all into place.

Thanks Lee for that thread, I'm suitably depressed now

I do think that some object must have got thrown up, as I noticed a streak of underseal has been gorged out just below where the crack / hole was - see below.




[/img][img]



I've decided to do what Andy001 suggested, which is to repair the damage on the inner wing, paint the area where the bracket has moved and monitor it to see if it moves any more.

Also considering using some 'liquid metal' to fill in where the lip of the box section has lifted. May or may not help it to stay put.
I've also applied underseal to the whole inner wing plus the small box section.

I think a strut brace of some sort would be a good way of preventing any futher troubles, as this box section isnt going to get any better!
Simon Auto's looks like it's designed to be used on a car without a engine cover - as I cant see how the bar can be accommodated in the small araea between engine and cover.

This topic has been discussed at length before (follow the thread to which Lee refers). Some thought that the 'turret tops' were not structral - they are though, and if they have lost their original structural integrity the turrets will tend to rotate inwards (towards the engine) hence the cracking and 'debonding' from the inner wings. The turret tops also link to a hidden strengthening tube that runs inside the rear pillar and along the rear roof line (remove one of the 'false' vents to the rear of the rear quarter widows and you will see). To echo one or 2 others' concerns, I would not trust to any bonding agent to fix this: it simply won't work. The turret tops can be removed (thread Lee referred to covers this) and new ones fabricated although one side might just still be available - it was a few months ago. It's a fiddly job (you'll need a dremel and lots of patience!). The turret tops are bonded in place but it's the bolting that's key. The tops may originally have been welded to the GTA strengthening bar previously mentioned (it was fixed with two bolts on the A610) but you can access the back of the strengthening bar through the side vent area so refixing without rewelding should be feasible. If you want more specific advice I've removed and replaced the turret tops on my 610 so might be able to help.

As for the strut brace, that will fit but you will have to grind a bit out of the top edge of the end brackets otherwise they foul the engine cover hinge structure and lift the rear edge of the cover when you close it - done this too!

Best of luck, and don't be depressed, this can be fixed but please don't try to bond your turret tops with 'liquid metal' or similar, you will truly be wasting your time and your turrets will almost certainly continue to move.

Paul T

WRT the issue of bonding in the turrets and roll over bar, I suddenly remembered an article in one of the Transport Source or Gold Portfolio books where it mentions this.

I'd need to dig it out but I'm sure it said that the bolts to the roll over bar were technically not required. The car was successfully crash tested without them, but legislation at the time said they had to be in place for the road cars.

Does kind of suggest that stuctural glues formed an integral part of all this. The problem is that glues work well when they're fresh and have clean surfaces to bond to!!

[mettersl]

One of the turret pockets was on the Dieppe specials list. One side only.
Lee

The box section still has all four sides and appears to still be secured to both the strut tower and the roll bar. It's the fact that one of the 'lips' of the box section has lifted which has caused the tower to move a few mill.

It was this lip that I suggested to use liquid metal on, not the strut tower.

Maybe I'm worrying a little too much, as it still looks to have more metal showing than one the photos in the thread Clee refered to.

I guess the important thing is that the fixings to the roll bar and the strut tower are solid and there is still a good proportion of thick metal remaining between these two points.

Sorry to say but I also feel the same, do not use a 'liquid metal'. You need to cut out the rotten metal as you seem to have a structural weakness in that area. Masking the problem is unsafe and fitting a strut brace is also masking the problem. These cars are well designed but some are getting to the point of now needing structural repairs, you car appears to be one.

Fix the problem and get back to enjoying your car instead of wasting time.

Lots of people will from this site will be willing to help you have the problem fixed correctly.

The box section still has all four sides and appears to still be secured to both the strut tower and the roll bar. It's the fact that one of the 'lips' of the box section has lifted which has caused the tower to move a few mill.

It was this lip that I suggested to use liquid metal on, not the strut tower.

Maybe I'm worrying a little too much, as it still looks to have more metal showing than one the photos in the thread Clee refered to.

I guess the important thing is that the fixings to the roll bar and the strut tower are solid and there is still a good proportion of thick metal remaining between these two points.

I know you're probably getting tired of all the 'advice' now, but I understand what you are saying above. The corner lips of the turret top box are spot welded (2 welds per corner) and I would say that at least one of the corner's welds have given way on yours. Unfortunately that means that the long sides of the box will splay outwards under the strain and will continue to do so as there is nothing really but fibreglass to stop it. If you can find the time to remove the turret top box it/they may even be salvagable - mine were and for extra 'insurance' I seam welded the corners (all of them). To start with I thought I would never get the tops out (totally seized nuts etc) but they can be removed. New or refurbished tops should allow all the key components to be drawn back into position as you bolt them up - unless the shift is massive you won't need to force or jack anything into place.

Once again - best of luck!

Paul T

One of the turret pockets was on the Dieppe specials list. One side only.

Stephen, can you advise if this is still available on the Dieppe list please ?
I believe the part number is 6001005413/414 ?

Sounds like I need to 'bite the bullet' and replace the whole thing

Thanks for all the comments, very much appreciated.
Paul

[mettersl]

I don't know if its still available but it was this part:-

p/no 6001005413 / 0 / 57
Descr GOUSSET/ left rear wheel arch pocket
Alpine parts book page 43.102 item 17
normal price 25.62 €
promotional price 7.69 €


Stephen should be able to look up if its available on the UK system.

Cheers
Lee

Thanks Lee,

Stephen,
Is this still available ?

Cheers
Paul