Help needed - fuel/running issue

Can you hear the front fuel pump running ALL THE TIME?

Sort of, difficult to hear over everything else.

But I have tested the voltage constantly on a drive, and I've also had it off the pumping from one bucket to another (pump connected to a 12v battery).

Okay, I get your point... I'll order one now... is this okay: Facet Posi-flo on eBay?

It's a single regulator. Today I did exactly that... took plenum off, started engine, and removed vac line from top of regulator. It ran a little under revs for 3-5 secs then sorted itself out. Putting it back on did the same, 3-5 secs then normal.

clee: thanks for the offer of the sale or return reg, I'll PM you...

[BIG_MVS]

Yes you can get confused with the noise of the rear pump, voltage proves nothing does it if it's seized?

Get one bought I bet it's your problem, then go and enjoy the alps

[quote="Teglen"]It's a single regulator. Today I did exactly that... took plenum off, started engine, and removed vac line from top of regulator. It ran a little under revs for 3-5 secs then sorted itself out. Putting it back on did the same, 3-5 secs then normal.[quote]

Yes it will because the ecu will modulate the idle air control valve to bring the revs back up by opening it and introducing more air to the engine to compensate. Just disconnect the IAC connector, and then you will see the effect. Bonus, sounds like your IAC is working fine though

BIGMVS: it's definitely not seized, as I've had it pumping fuel from one bucket to another, lots of it at that Is that eBay Facet pump okay as a replacement you think?

MFaulks: IACV on the car is brand new, replaced as I bought the car in Feb so that's the bonus thanks for the explanation, I'll disconnect it tomorrow and try again to see what happens... if it's working I should get what? if it's not working I should get what?

Yes that pump is just in, you'll need 120lbs/hour, and that will deliver 128ibs/hour. They are good pumps anyway; I use one to shift oil, water and fuel out of tanks

Disconnect the IAC with the vac line connected to the regulator, it should carry on running reasonably well, but just see. Get a feel for how it runs. Then disconnect the vac line to the regulator (blocking the open hole for the manifold connection), and it should go instantly very rich and rough.. if you blip the throttle it should be well over rich and surround you in a nice cloud of black smoke. Listen to the high-pressure pump, check if it is noisy then?

If you have a vac pump then you can pull vacuum and should return the engine to nice clean running i.e leans the motor out - less fuel rail pressure, less fuel injected per injection event / duty cycle.

If you increase i.e. pump up the signal line to the regulator it will further enrichen the mixture and I doubt the engine will be running for long... you may just get long enough to hear how the high pressure pump sounds. If it's complaining because of rail pressure, then you should hear it then. If it doesn't then it may be heat related with the pump itself..

Give it a go and see

[quote="Teglen"]BIGMVS: it's definitely not seized, as I've had it pumping fuel from one bucket to another, lots of it at that Is that eBay Facet pump okay as a replacement you think?

quote]

If it is a Facet diaphragm type it is not good on a turbo as the low pressure pump as it pumps to a swirl pot (holding tank) for the main pump. The fuel that overflows this runs back to the main tank, except these pumps are not designed to run flat out all day and wear themselves out after a year or so. A roller style low pressure pump like the original is what is needed.

I'm using that type on JIL but then it's not an everyday motor ..I'm changing the whole fuel system now anyway .....I must have an original design pump from JIL somewhere also ,I'll pop that in with the reg .
Fit the reg first and see though .Helps diagnostics for future ref .If you put both on we'll never know .........

Update 3
This morning I disconnected the IACV and ran the engine... screamed like a banshee , pulled the vac feed off the reg, still screamed like a banshee, pressed the accelerator screamed like a stabbed banshee

So, I'm guessing the reg is fooked?

... ummm depends, your IAC may default open which would be rather strange, most default closed... It's scream more because it's got lots of air and no load, i.e. like holding the throttle plate open..

In which case you need to block that circuit - the IAC air bypass circuit. Two pieces of wooden dowel of sufficient diameter to fit snug in the hoses disconnected either side of the IAC should do it i.e block the two hoses with them disconnected from the IAC.

Remember and repeat, "testing is fun" :lol
:

[BIG_MVS]

How did we leave this? Are you waiting for a spare Fuel reg and front pump from clee to test?

Yes, clee has very kindly offered sale or return on the reg and thrown in an old pump too (although i have also ordered one of the Facet's from fleabay). As soon as i get them we can continue the saga of diagnosis.

Paul.

Work done so far...
Rear pump off. Cleaned electrical connections, tested pump with 12v, shoots a nice jet of petrol right across my lawn, promptly killing grass , refitted. Didn't bother testing the wiring circuit, as it's obvious the pump is running (noisy)

Rear filter off, totally clear, no gunk etc, refitted

Fuel tank is clean as a whistle, not one iota of gunk/dust/sand, nothing (I removed the fuel tank level sensor for good access/visibility)

Front pump off. Tested pump with 12v, shoots small jet of petrol across garage floor , refitted, tested circuit with ignition on 12v good

Front fiter is basically brand new, again clear and clean

Tank and filters may be clean, but have you definately checked the fuel lines from fuel tank to primary filter and front pump ?

Tank and filters may be clean, but have you definately checked the fuel lines from fuel tank to primary filter and front pump ?

Yes, completely removed from car and checked it. I've got the regulator from clee (thanks!) and a new front pump also, so will be changing them tonight (one at a time for diagnosis). Fingers crossed.

By the way, is there any kind of temperature cut-out sensor/switch that could be involved here? This appears to happen once the car is up to full temperature, just wondering if the is a temperature switch, or something like automatic choke that could be restricting fuel or summet? (blind guessing now).

Good ,sorry couldn't find a working pump .There is one here somewhere
No temp cutout as such ,ECU controlled by the water temp ,air temp on the throttle body to some degree but the main input is water temp