A610 in the Rat's nest

Running gear proving impossible to undo on the twatted side so have left it to think on whilst it sits next to me lump hammer

Stripped the lump and looks like we've caught it just in time or we'd be looking at a new crank as well
Heads are looking like they have water ingress but don't show much damage on the fire rings .Will have to have a close look at it all tomorrow .Something is happening on bank A but odd that the ' bypass pipework ' seems to fix the overheating
Whatever ,clearly something was up and perverse as it is I always like to see some damage to justify my judgement
Middle pots on both banks were showing good pressure but the worst down at 100psi is the one with the water in the bore .

That is looking in a sorry state lee, glad to see it is getting some loving are there any plans to mod the motor while it is all out to give her some more POWER??

[mettersl]

Hi Lee,
As has already said, be careful about assuming that the subframe is twisted by checking against the wheel arch. It may be damaged, but the body is no reference at all.
Early 610's ( the '92 Press cars) that I have looked at are even- but there aren't that many early RHD 610's. Most of them are later models - with most '94 cars being RHD.
Everyone of the later cars I have looked at has a big difference between the right and the left wheel arches- Mine, Mr Dells, all the ones I have looked at at shows. The early ones are OK.
I have had mine measured twice on different systems, its square and the wheels are in the right place, its the body that is out.
I thought it was the other David Gentlemen's A610 that had had the bash, and that one is straight too now- with a measurement certificate to prove it.
On the subframe-I had one bolt seize solid in the subframe due to corrosion- eventually I had to cut it off, cut out the tube through the subframe and weld in a new supporting tube from the inside.
Much easier done when out of the car(probably the source of my bad back) - and I have enough tube left for 5-6 subframes...
Cheers
Lee

Ok ,thanks Lee .Good to know but what to do ?? I take it all those with differences have no obvious defects on the subframes ??
I'm certainly not going to put that frame back in .It's been twatted and repaired as you can see .I don't trust it being straight .
As said , I will build up running gear on another frame and plonk it in to see where it's out .If it is still the same then we'll have to think again .

I seem to remember when we did the test at a Northern Meet that mine was the closest to being equal (still a bit out though!) Mine is a 92 press car. Some of them including the minter green N1 AAA car were well out.

Great to see these project topics by the way Clee.

Hi Lee,
As has already said, be careful about assuming that the subframe is twisted by checking against the wheel arch. It may be damaged, but the body is no reference at all.
Early 610's ( the '92 Press cars) that I have looked at are even- but there aren't that many early RHD 610's. Most of them are later models - with most '94 cars being RHD.
Everyone of the later cars I have looked at has a big difference between the right and the left wheel arches- Mine, Mr Dells, all the ones I have looked at at shows. The early ones are OK.
I have had mine measured twice on different systems, its square and the wheels are in the right place, its the body that is out.
I thought it was the other David Gentlemen's A610 that had had the bash, and that one is straight too now- with a measurement certificate to prove it.
On the subframe-I had one bolt seize solid in the subframe due to corrosion- eventually I had to cut it off, cut out the tube through the subframe and weld in a new supporting tube from the inside.
Much easier done when out of the car(probably the source of my bad back) - and I have enough tube left for 5-6 subframes...
Cheers
Lee

I had a corroded liner seat like that on a recent DeLorean resurrection. I spent a ot of money having it welded up and machined for the sake of keeping the original block. I might suggest to rob that a donor Laguna block might be the way forward for the lump at least.

Yep ,it's well borderline .
I need to see it in the morning light but not too hopeful .I have a couple of other blocks but they are all complete so means stripping down yet another lump
I need to speak to MrF and see if he has any crossbolts lying around but I fear not .

I will have to check mine tomorrow and see how far out mine is!

3 litres are all cross bolted aren't they? Also the Laguna lumps have the under piston jets, not all 3 litres do.

[BIG_MVS]

I seem to remember when we did the test at a Northern Meet that mine was the closest to being equal (still a bit out though!) Mine is a 92 press car. Some of them including the minter green N1 AAA car were well out.

Yes the green minter was a bit of a "Wizards Sleeve" in the finger test wasn't it

Need a later cross bolt block and caps
Thumb print size and shape I'm afraid .Shame as the rest of the seats are top notch .I could see about getting it repaired ,will take it with me to the engine guys when I drop the heads in for checks .

If you can't find anyone locally, I can definitely get it done (and for Rob, no fee ) - it was around £400. Getting a donor lump would prolly be easier... there was one on fleabay last week when I told Dellboy about it...

BTW I have a fistful of genuine plastic 93mm liner seals if you want them.

Cheers Spunky .
Dunno at the minute ,need to speak to Rob .I do have a donor here .

Off to drop the heads off ,will see what they say on the block .

That's a Safrane engine and won't have the under-piston jets innit...er in it.

Ooooh - while yer in there, how about measuring up the camshafts

Can you post a decent piccy of a piston, just for sh!ts and giggles....

No ...I can't even get to it as yet Will pull it out when I test fit the subframe and can roll the 610 back a bit .....
Engine dudes reckon they can sleeve it for not that many pennies .They have done it before .Bore out the location area then heat fit a sleeve .