Petrol Gauge Readings

Well done . It looks to me that the TSU is at fault then. I see that you have opened it up checked a few things, soldered a connection but with no success. The only thing I can offer is for you to send it to me, and I will give it a check over, and try it in my Alp to see if it is in fact faulty or not.
However this is something I only offer to full members now, so if you are serious about joining the club and want me to check it over for you, then I will PM you my address. Let me know what you think.

Thats very kind of you, John.
Judging by the result from your TSU test, carried out in March 09 and the corresponding results, it does appear that mine is faulty.
The figures I got when testing with ignition on, between TSU Orange and TSU Red were 12v (yours 9v) and between TSU Black and TSU Orange were 0.28v (yours 12v). Also the reading with ignition on, meter set to AC were different.
Thanks for your offer to check it out, thats very kind of you, but I think I will source out someone local that repairs pcb's. Unless, of course, you are able to repair it too.
As for my membership, rest assured that it will be in the post before monday morning. As soon as I am able to print the form out, as I currently have no printer.
Thanks again John.

Unless, of course, you are able to repair it too.

I have repaired a few of them for members and it is usually cracks, broken print or dry joints which are not too difficult to repair. I have also found dampness damage to the print which I have been able to bridge with minature wire links. Because you found green gunk on a pin, I would be looking very closely at the far end of the board for wetness damage as due to the mounting of the TSU plug upwards, dampness has got in and got to the bottom of the casing and damaged the print. It is more likely to be that type of damage rather than a component failure in my view, but if it is a component failure, without a manual of test gig, I would be very surprised if it could be repaired....but if you find someone that can test it down to component level, let us know....it could be very useful to the club.
However, if it were mine, I would like to have it confirmed that it is in fact faulty before it is played about with, and the only real way of doing that is by substution in another Alp with a known good working fuel gauge.
Let us know how you get on.

John

Hi
I am also trying to sort my flashing fuel level display.
I have read the various threads and have this question.
Mine reads 18.7 gals.
I have tried disconecting the TSU and nothing happens? the reading doesn't change.
DOes this mean it is FUBAR?
MT

btw - I've had the tube out of the tank and it looks ok.
2 fine wires intact with the float moving freely up and down.

btw - I've had the tube out of the tank and it looks ok.
2 fine wires intact with the float moving freely up and down.

A couple of things....have you checked with a meter on ohms across the float tube, the resistance should change as the float moves up and down.
If the timer relay fails, I have found that the computer would read 18.7 gals. You need to check the yellow wire going into the TSU, or the same yellow wire leaving the timer relay...see pics above. Put a meter on it.
Having done a full reset, switch ign on, meter should read 12 volts, leave on for, say, 60secs, leaving the meter on the yellow wire, switch off ign, the voltage should remain around 12 volts for a further approx 30 secs, then the relay should click, and the volts should disappear from the yellow wire.
Give that a try.
BTW, it would help if we knew the model year of the Alp.

JohnC - High Priest of Electrickery.
I was hoping you would respond
Car is an '89 atmo with red dash.
ATM I have done a visual inspection only as I don't have the first clue about electrics.
Having said that, I am today swapping out my coil for a new electronic one bought from Maccess. Looks different but the leaflet says that!
I asked my garage to do it for me 2-3 years ago when I bought it but they said it was the wrong 1. Having spent most of the day trying to get at it - I think that is the reason they declined I will keep the old one safe just in case!!
It certainly looks messed with in this area with some of the wires very stiff which I think is heat damage?
Should I try and replace these while its in bits? They disapear into the main loom!!
BTW if it is the wrong coil, can it damage anything?

Anyway I digress, I do have a multimeter and the liner is still out so I will try the first test you mention.
Mark

I am today swapping out my coil for a new electronic one bought from Maccess.

This is something new for me , what exactally is an "electronic coil" ?

The leaflet says it's manufactured using resin bonding rather than oil-bath technology