Gearbox oil change

My experience is that I got exacly 3 litres back into it, or what ever the manual spec is.

He's right you know

Just one thought to pass on I beleive the oil spec for the Turbo to the Atmo is different, I am guessing thicker for the Turbo as the whole assembley runs a lot hotter. I currently have the grade used in the Turbo and I am having trouble with gear changes mainly from 1st to 2nd and I am wondering if a thinner good qulaity oil would help me overcome this problem. Any thoughts experience on this one? Anyone?

si21

I tend to use the item below, very easy and NO MESS

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... uction-gun

Ditto that, six posts up from yours in fact,

On the subject of what oil to use has anybody investigated any of the redline oils? I think some of the gear oils specified for the GTA Turbo are semi synthetics.

When I looked into this before for my MX5 (similar situation) the Redline oils came very highly recommended but were very expensive, particularly because they came in American quantities. There was however a lot of feedback about improved gearchanges and reduced noise.

So, are we saying that the reason behind such frequent oil changes is dues to the heat generated in gearbox?

So, are we saying that the reason behind such frequent oil changes is dues to the heat generated in gearbox?

Hi Paul, I don`t think anyone can be sure as to why Renault specify 12k oil changes, they must have their reasons, but if they recommend it, who are we to question it.
Originally Renault specified TRX 80W gear oil, but that has been superseded by TRX 75W-80. To me it fits the bill with what is required for these Alp boxes. I have it in my Alp and have no problems with it. Here is its spec:-

http://www.uleiauto.ro/phpeuri/oiluri/elf/1076.pdf

I personally would hesitate filling up with another gearbox oil as there could be issues with the syncro not working well due to oil being thinner or more slippery.
However others may disagree

[BIG_MVS]

Yes I only use the elf TRX as JohnC mentions above. If anyone has 2 litres of the old oil I have a spare 1 Litre tub of the TRX 80 if it's any use to anyone who can make up an oil change?

I tend to use the item below, very easy and NO MESS

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... uction-gun

On the subject of what oil to use has anybody investigated any of the redline oils? I think some of the gear oils specified for the GTA Turbo are semi synthetics.

When I looked into this before for my MX5 (similar situation) the Redline oils came very highly recommended but were very expensive, particularly because they came in American quantities. There was however a lot of feedback about improved gearchanges and reduced noise.

On a friend's Turbo his first and second gears had poor synchros, so poor he was going to rebuild the box. A Subaru WRX guy recommended Redline Lightweight shockproof. Changing to this fixed his synchros.

I also have this in my box in the Turbo with no worries, but am happy to stretch the changes out to 60 000 Miles, given the nature of the oil and the price.

I use this same Lightweight Shockproof in my race BMW gearbox and diff, and in some bike gearboxes that don't have a wet clutch. Obviously I am a believer.

When a bike box that was using this oil was pulled apart, I found this light blue/green film of oil still stuck all over the gears, even though it had been turned over in months. Actually it takes a bit of effort with a brush and kero to remove it. Great protection for seldom used machinery.

I tend to use the item below, very easy and NO MESS

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... uction-gun

On the subject of what oil to use has anybody investigated any of the redline oils? I think some of the gear oils specified for the GTA Turbo are semi synthetics.

When I looked into this before for my MX5 (similar situation) the Redline oils came very highly recommended but were very expensive, particularly because they came in American quantities. There was however a lot of feedback about improved gearchanges and reduced noise.

On a friend's Turbo his first and second gears had poor synchros, so poor he was going to rebuild the box. A Subaru WRX guy recommended Redline Lightweight shockproof. Changing to this fixed his synchros.

I also have this in my box in the Turbo with no worries, but am happy to stretch the changes out to 60 000 Miles, given the nature of the oil and the price.

I use this same Lightweight Shockproof in my race BMW gearbox and diff, and in some bike gearboxes that don't have a wet clutch. Obviously I am a believer.

When a bike box that was using this oil was pulled apart, I found this light blue/green film of oil still stuck all over the gears, even though it had been turned over in months. Actually it takes a bit of effort with a brush and kero to remove it. Great protection for seldom used machinery.

I am assuming that this then helped the problem solved it altogether?

JohnC I have no problems breezing around the country lanes its when I rewquire an urgent change sprinting; the first change isusually ok ish there after it just become impossible at times. I have found If I pre warm the engine well in advance I seem to have less of an issue, but an issue that screws my runs up none the less.

Please can you confirm the actual results as the change to second is seriously affecting my times and it's so frustrating when you match your fastest time with alast run where you had two baulked changes

Many thanks

Si21

JohnC I have no problems breezing around the country lanes its when I rewquire an urgent change sprinting; the first change isusually ok ish there after it just become impossible at times. I have found If I pre warm the engine well in advance I seem to have less of an issue, but an issue that screws my runs up none the less.

Please can you confirm the actual results as the change to second is seriously affecting my times and it's so frustrating when you match your fastest time with alast run where you had two baulked changes

Simon, I am not too sure what you are asking me to confirm, if in fact you are asking me to confirm something.
With regard to prewarming the engine, I really can`t see why that should have any effect on gear changing, it would hardly warm up the gear oil as only the first motion shaft would be turning.
What actually is the problem you have.....gear won`t go in.....crunching gears...or something else? Is the problem changing up, or down?

John

You might want to let someone else drive it in anger and see if they have the same issue .....Clutch travel ??

You might want to let someone else drive it in anger and see if they have the same issue .....Clutch travel ??

I believe the clutch requires more travel to disengage as it becomes older and it seems that the travel that the GTA has when all is new is only adequate.

On the track recently mine lost its clutch after about 15 laps, but only through the fluid getting hot in the slave cylinder, given it lives under the turbo. All shields and the air scoop are in place.

Changed the fluid about two years ago, and it seems it must need it again. The clutch came back to drive home after 10 mins of rest, and was working normally.

....the fluid getting hot in the slave cylinder, given it lives under the turbo. All shields and the air scoop are in place.

This problem seems to come up time and time again. When I first heard about it, I immediately thought of whether it was possible to cool the slave cylinder, to me that seemed a way forward. Now remember, I have not got a Turbo, or have not done any work on one, so, I may be talking out the top of my head. My understanding is that the rear fans are running most of the time, and definitely when the engine gets hot, so how about picking up some air from the offside fan by somehow connecting, say, half inch flexible pipe to the duct just before it turns up to mate with the engine cover, pass it around and across the bulkhead and direct the airflow on to the slave cylinder.
This principle is very similar to the air ducting to the carbs in the Atmo, which for all intents and purposes works for them, so why not the slave cylinder.
Clearly I do not know if this is at all practical or not but someone is bound to tell me, But it but it is just a thought. It is something that I would have looked into if I was having similar problems,

Hi john sorry my post was rushed and misleading. I was actally actually asking if the redline oil recommended went anyway to resolving the issue?
The issue being that 2nd gear is baulking when you are trying and in a hurry.

The touble is that the car had a damaged linkage whereby it had been forced forwards by a rear end accident; the bolts and the bush being damaged at the very front of the linkage. The balls ons on the linkage to the box have been replaced the change improved greatly as 5th was not avaiable at all and reverse a 2 handed affair.

I have also had to compromise my seating arrangement so I can sit in the car with a helmet on. The bucket seat is tilted backwards to give me more head room, this in turn has raised the front of the seat so stretching my leg to the pedal somewhat, its not ideal so.this could also be part of.the problem. I am going to try lowering the front of the seat again slightly to help this. I have thought about whether its me a lot and I have tried to slow the change down which has helped but I have to confess that this always seems to happen when i'm in the zone and going for it. It sounds silly but the adrenaline is flowing I honestly dont know if its me, all I know is 2nd gear is the only gear that I have an issue with. Its just so frustrating the,clutch has just been replaced with a turbo item.

Clee I have thought about getting someone else to drive it for some feed back and to see if its me. The change always feels a bit stiff into second under duress. Its almost like the clutch is slightly engaged it never snicks going in. first port of call is to drop the front of the seat and see if its drivable with a helmet on.

Oh forgot to say engine mounts look good almost new and the gearbox mount is a new 610 item as the rubber was seperating from its metal backing plate.

Si21

Hi john sorry my post was rushed and misleading. I was actally actually asking if the redline oil recommended went anyway to resolving the issue?
The issue being that 2nd gear is baulking when you are trying and in a hurry.

The touble is that the car had a damaged linkage whereby it had been forced forwards by a rear end accident; the bolts and the bush being damaged at the very front of the linkage. The balls ons on the linkage to the box have been replaced the change improved greatly as 5th was not avaiable at all and reverse a 2 handed affair.

I have also had to compromise my seating arrangement so I can sit in the car with a helmet on. The bucket seat is tilted backwards to give me more head room, this in turn has raised the front of the seat so stretching my leg to the pedal somewhat, its not ideal so.this could also be part of.the problem. I am going to try lowering the front of the seat again slightly to help this. I have thought about whether its me a lot and I have tried to slow the change down which has helped but I have to confess that this always seems to happen when i'm in the zone and going for it. It sounds silly but the adrenaline is flowing I honestly dont know if its me, all I know is 2nd gear is the only gear that I have an issue with. Its just so frustrating the,clutch has just been replaced with a turbo item.

Clee I have thought about getting someone else to drive it for some feed back and to see if its me. The change always feels a bit stiff into second under duress. Its almost like the clutch is slightly engaged it never snicks going in. first port of call is to drop the front of the seat and see if its drivable with a helmet on.

Oh forgot to say engine mounts look good almost new and the gearbox mount is a new 610 item as the rubber was seperating from its metal backing plate.

Si21

Hi john sorry my post was rushed and misleading. I was actally actually asking if the redline oil recommended went anyway to resolving the issue?
The issue being that 2nd gear is baulking when you are trying and in a hurry.

The touble is that the car had a damaged linkage whereby it had been forced forwards by a rear end accident; the bolts and the bush being damaged at the very front of the linkage. The balls ons on the linkage to the box have been replaced the change improved greatly as 5th was not avaiable at all and reverse a 2 handed affair.

I have also had to compromise my seating arrangement so I can sit in the car with a helmet on. The bucket seat is tilted backwards to give me more head room, this in turn has raised the front of the seat so stretching my leg to the pedal somewhat, its not ideal so.this could also be part of.the problem. I am going to try lowering the front of the seat again slightly to help this. I have thought about whether its me a lot and I have tried to slow the change down which has helped but I have to confess that this always seems to happen when i'm in the zone and going for it. It sounds silly but the adrenaline is flowing I honestly dont know if its me, all I know is 2nd gear is the only gear that I have an issue with. Its just so frustrating the,clutch has just been replaced with a turbo item.

Clee I have thought about getting someone else to drive it for some feed back and to see if its me. The change always feels a bit stiff into second under duress. Its almost like the clutch is slightly engaged it never snicks going in. first port of call is to drop the front of the seat and see if its drivable with a helmet on.

Oh forgot to say engine mounts look good almost new and the gearbox mount is a new 610 item as the rubber was seperating from its metal backing plate.

Si21

The issue being that 2nd gear is baulking when you are trying and in a hurry.

Changing up or down or both?