high idle

Yes absolutely.

Is the part number 7700267682 correct for the temp sensor?

Does anybody know where i can get replacement pins for the connectors? or replacement connectors if the pins are not available on their own?

is there a way to remove the old pins already in the connectors?

Thanks

Does anybody know where i can get replacement pins for the connectors? or replacement connectors if the pins are not available on their own?

is there a way to remove the old pins already in the connectors?

Thanks

I think ....correct me if I'm wrong that renault actualy sell plugs pins connectors etc

si21....whether they have them in stock is a different matter.

is there a way to remove the old pins already in the connectors?

I have found an old thread of mine which explains how to do this:-

First prise back the clips either side of the casing, and the rear cover should fold away from the main body revealing the wire entry points. There should be a rubber grommet around each wire which can be pulled out.
Next...see pics below... The actual pin has two barbs, and carefully, without damaging the actual pin, with a jewellers screwdriver or similar, press each barb into the pins body, then you can pull the pin out through the back of the connector. It is difficult to actually see the barbs down the tube, so to speak, but you can feel for them. If you look at the second pic, you can see where the barbs are in relation to the open sides of the pin, ie:- the barbs are at 90` from the open sides. You can easily see the open sides of the pin. It is a bit fiddly to do, but you don`t have to use much force. Clearly, all you have to do when replacing the pins into the connector, is reset the barbs as the pics below show.
I have used this method for years without too much trouble, but just recently, I have made a tool ( a tube really ) to slide over the pin, out of 4 thou` shim stock, which works a treat and saves all the fiddling.
Before you start, make sure you have a pic, or make a note of which colour wire goes to which side of the connector, the last thing you want is the wires reversed.
Once you get the hang of the first pin, you will find the other is easy.

Latest Info on this:
When you press on the barb, it has to get over a very small lip in the housing which stops it coming out by its self,...the best way to overcome this is not to hold the plug casing, but hold the actual wire thus allowing the casing to drop back a midge so as the barb will drop into its slot.




Hope this helps.

From memory the ECU sensor comes with the lead and plug attached. JohnC's post should help you with the other side.....

Thanks very much JohnC, that really helps

i will pass by the Reno garage to see if they can get me some new pins

Just have to wait for the new sensor and see if it solves the problem...

thanks everyone!

Is this the idling control valve?

Yes that's it .

One for JohnC

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Harley-6061-A ... 3cbc3f71dd

Thanks Lee, good find ..... however it is only a 3mm ID bit of tubing. Before I made one, I thought that I might be able to get a bit of 3mm tubing, my thought was an outer of a prop shaft for a model boat, We used to have a shop over here that stocked all this type of model bits and pieces but no longer, hence having to make one. But if anyone is passing a model shop, it might be worth seeing if they have such tubing.... could be useful,
I haven't tried it yet, but I am sure the same bit of tubing can be used to remove the female connectors as well........ or even to slide it down over them to tighten the connection up a bit.

right, i have replaced the connector pins, i have cleaned the idle control valve, plenty lube on throttle mechanism and cable moving freely, and i have replaced the water temp sensor with a second hand one which Mr Dell told me worked fine. now it idles at 1200rpm engine cold or hot... (with the old one it idled 800rpm when cold 1500rpm when hot) i havent measured the resistance over the water temp sensor yet but will do tomorrow just to confirm it works fine.

it clearly is not working as it used to, and is frustrating me as i am clearly not a mechanical wizard and dont know what to do...any ideas? do i need to adjust the idle somehow now i have swapped the sensor? if yes how? if no does that mean that the water temp sensor is not working as it should? can it be something else?

thanks in advance

What happens when you unplug the idle valve ,hot or cold ? Could just be the throttle plate is open slightly ,there is a rest pin that can be adjusted .
1200 isn't that high but yes it should be around 800 when hot .+ don't rule out that the new old sensor is playing up ....

Sounds silly but check the main coolant hose.

Similar issue. I thought the same in terms of the idle control valve (took it out, cleaned it with WD40 etc - lots of gunk cleaned out) but zero difference.

What was actually happening was that when hot the main coolant hose (from the top of the thermostat) was expanding a fraction (pressure and heat) and was snagging on the tiny pin that's underneath the throttle pulley (look under it and you'll see what I mean).

As a result the idle was running high when hot and normal when cold. The throttle was moving normally when cold (when you tend to work on these things) but not when hot (when you generally don't as you burn your fingers)

All sorted with a cable tie round the hose.

Probably not your issue but then again....................

Hi Mogster

I am not an expert but when I had a problem with a high ’ish idle speed on my Venturi 260 I was advised to check and clean out the Idle Control Valve, this didn’t make too much difference so I was told to replace it as it was probably done for! I did replace it with a nice shiny new Bosch unit and this seemed to provide sporadic relief from the high idle speed problem, but no more.

Then one day I was doing the old stare at the engine routine when I became aware of a slight hissing sound, I located it to a component, (sorry no idea what it is called), on top of the Venturi’s engine with a small diameter hose connected at the top of it. The hose had a split in it and was therefore not fully sealed, I trimmed the hose and pushed it back in place the hose was now silent and the idle speed dropped back to a normal 800 rpm region.

I only have a small photo of the engine bay of my Le Mans but I have put a yellow arrow onto the photo to identify the component. On the GTA this component is in a different location when compared to the Venturi.

Hope this is of some help!

Paul.

That's the recirc valve /dump valve .
It would be the small vac pipe for it to cure idle issues as that is post throttle
I'm assuming Cedric has already checked for leaks ???? If not check all the small pipes coming from the inlet manifold and also the idle valve pipework to throttle base .
I know the fuel reg has been messed about with so double check that has a good seal .