Atmo..........................

[BIG_MVS]

Jonah is his new name...

Si hasn't changed the engine yet Mr Faulks only the carbs with me.

Got the matching lump though Si if your interested? £125 for whats left, bargain much cheapness

If only we could find the chancer that sold this car to poor innocent Si in the first place.....

SOLD AS SEEN .Luvely shine to it
Was for a track project I was told ...going to drop a 24v in ....then he got Dell'd into all sorts of unnecessary bling and trick stuff when money should have been spent on the basics
Only messin Si ,,,but you know I is correct

SOLD AS SEEN .Luvely shine to it
Was for a track project I was told ...going to drop a 24v in ....then he got Dell'd into all sorts of unnecessary bling and trick stuff when money should have been spent on the basics
Only messin Si ,,,but you know I is correct

Not really clee as the only bling bits on the car are the exhaust and wheels which to be honest will pay for themselves with cheaper tyres.

The exhaust renault wanted about £500 +VAT for just the box, sorry but I wasn't going to pay that for a standard rear box and not get any power for my money, and passed experience has taught me the hard way doing it on the cheap with second hand parts is mainly a false economy 3 starter moters and alternators later back that theory up, not to mention other items. Both manifolds were leaking badly warped and cracked so also needed replacement ....so I did the job properly and got more power doing so.

The standard wheels on the car were buckled so were in need of replacement and the tyres were worn only one good rear 255 x 15 and a pattern no longer available and god knows how old, so odd grip/type/style rear tyres was not an option. New lighter larger rims with cheaper modern tyre combination made replacement tyres affordable so practicle for me; a couple of rear tyres and and they will have paid for themselves as I only paid £800 for both rims and tyres; two decent 255 x 15 rear tyres are £500 + £80 -90 the fronts plus replacement rims it worked out cheaper anyway.

The basics I was not going to take the engine and box out just to see if the clutch was worn out especially as the engine was only supposed to last a season and a bit maybe two as I have another subframe ready to build up with and another engine all to be revamped, including suspention etc ready to bolt in as a unit

Money has not been spent on bling and other items left by the wayside due to it. The rear hatch was part of the deal on my Le Mans fibreglass job and the sale of a brand new rear glass paid for it. I dont see any other bling so I find your statement unfounded sir

If the exhaust had been ok it would still be fitted as would the wheels TBH

A 24 Valve lump was a future project to be considered for either car to be honest and never an option straight away although I have the heads pistons liners etc to do the project one day

It was just supposed to be a road going sprint hill climb car that I could have fun in for a couple of grand max to start with, obviously its cost me a lot more in time and money and hence my Lemans is not finished and wont be now for quite a while ...especially following recent events.

Cant be arsed with it now so I will be taking a break for the rest of the year gonna try and spend some time with the lovely Annie and forget about working on cars for a while...fed up of climbing in on around and under for no real reward and an empty wallet

si21

[BIG_MVS]

Keep the faith Si, you will get there.

Unfortunately this is a lesson for anyone taking on a GTA which has stood for a long time. You almost have to replace everything

Cant be arsed with it now so I will be taking a break for the rest of the year gonna try and spend some time with the lovely Annie and forget about working on cars for a while...fed up of climbing in on around and under for no real reward and an empty wallet

Martin has a good point - you are 99% there, do it, and do it now, then use it. If you don't it will get worse or not get done, and you know it Ya misses will be much happier with you fulfilled - if you feel happy with the satisfaction it's a jump in and go, otherwise the thing will drag you down even if you think you can ignore it, the brain will never let you... trust me, I'm a patient... and psycho therapy is snake oil and the Ramones didn't help much either! Them red pills are quite tasty though... one for me, two for you, one for me, two for you ha-ha+

[/quote]

If you don't keep on at it it'll end up in worse shape

[Alpineandy]

...fed up of climbing in on around and under for no real reward and an empty wallet

That's what happens with the ladies as well!

I have just come in from the dark cold a freezing having had the alternator tested and giving 14,4 volts and therefore refitted it.

the battery light still comes on or the ignition light does not go off. I have 12 volts to the bulk head and must have 12 volts to the solenoid /starter otherwise it would not be turning over like it does. I have then checked for 12volts at the alternator I have nothing at all There is nothing in the way which should prevent the flow of electrictiy reaching back to the alternator.

great I think its the connection between the two, so I test for continuity unfortunately I have continuity betwen the positve on the alternator and positve on the back of the solenoid and I also have continuity between the the pos on the alternator to the bulkhead. This tells me that I have a bad earth from the earth cable back to the engine then No I also have continuity between the earth on the alternator and and both the engine and the earth cable which runs behind the solenoid across the back of the gearbox and bolts up on one of the bellhousing bolts .....and I still do not have 12 volts at the alternator ......please can someone make sense of this I am starting dispair

Looks like I am going to miss that track day at Brands ....its doing my head in


si21..... is there a decent Priest in the house?

I have just come in from the dark cold a freezing having had the alternator tested and giving 14,4 volts and therefore refitted it.

the battery light still comes on or the ignition light does not go off. I have 12 volts to the bulk head and must have 12 volts to the solenoid /starter otherwise it would not be turning over like it does. I have then checked for 12volts at the alternator I have nothing at all There is nothing in the way which should prevent the flow of electrictiy reaching back to the alternator.

great I think its the connection between the two, so I test for continuity unfortunately I have continuity betwen the positve on the alternator and positve on the back of the solenoid and I also have continuity between the the pos on the alternator to the bulkhead. This tells me that I have a bad earth from the earth cable back to the engine then No I also have continuity between the earth on the alternator and and both the engine and the earth cable which runs behind the solenoid across the back of the gearbox and bolts up on one of the bellhousing bolts .....and I still do not have 12 volts at the alternator ......please can someone make sense of this I am starting dispair

Looks like I am going to miss that track day at Brands ....its doing my head in


si21..... is there a decent Priest in the house?

PS also forgot to say that both the smaller cables also have 12 volts running in them when tested a yellow wire going to the B+ teminal and a white whire going to the M terminal as marked on the back of the alternator, the loom no longer having the proper plug as it was rubbish.

should both these wires have 12volts to them? this was tested with ignition on but the engine not running???

Si21

Sounds like my issue the other day... which turned out to be water in the dizzy cap & corroded contacts. You say it's turning over, but whats the root problem? that it won't run, or runs rough? If so, definitely same as my issue.

[BIG_MVS]

So to summarise it's starting and running but not charging then? The alternator has been tested fine so that's good news (think positive).

JohnC is your Electrical GTA Jedi here so hopefully he can help

So to summarise it's starting and running but not charging then? The alternator has been tested fine so that's good news (think positive).

JohnC is your Electrical GTA Jedi here so hopefully he can help

I am already talking to John who is the Grand Master Electronics Jedi

The car runs and starts on a jump pack, but the alternator is confirmed as not charging when on the vehicle. The car runs and juts runs until the battery empties. I can confirm that there is no issue with the dizzy cap running is not an issue its making Electrickerythats the prob and storing it. Currently looking into a possible cause, its possible I have made a silly mistake when reassembling as it was charging previously but not starting nowits starting but not running LOL....Possessed I tell you.

I reckon Clee has a model of Christine made before he sold it to me and he bangs M7's into it like a VooDoo Car LOL

Most Renaults have got Va VA Voom mines got Va Va Voodoo

Come on Clee mate give me a break Only joking Clee I am just getting so deperate ilogical thoughts are my only explantion

si21...praying I've done a silly

Si,
Can not find my piece I done on voltage drop tests but there are a couple of you tube vid's and here is a link to one of many web pages about it.

http://www.engine-light-help.com/voltage-drop.html

Si,
Can not find my piece I done on voltage drop tests but there are a couple of you tube vid's and here is a link to one of many web pages about it.

http://www.engine-light-help.com/voltage-drop.html

Many thanks to you and also JohnC the electronics wizard Thanks very much for your help and also toMr Dell for searching the depths of Dell Towers to find an alternative alternator even though your still trying to sort out your house from the move

From my message you may already have gathered that Christine not only now starts but also keeps running yep the first female that could not originally multi task well she does now

After speaking to RED21 and JohnC by PM I pieced together all the info with my Dad and it was decided that the best port of call was low voltage to the alternator, which was not enough to activate it to into generating. I had wrongly assumed that I would be getting 12 volts but was getting 6 volts because the battery was low. These are the two wires that plug into the alternator, the yellow and white wires. When checking the power at the bulkhead i was still getting 11 volts. It was this that made me realise something here was not right.

I traced the wires back to the bulkhead multiplugs took them apart cleaned and sprayed up the contacts plugged it all back together started the engine tested with the multimeter and 14.4 volts at the bulkhead best seen previously 13.8volts so a big improvement and a car that runs and starts .

Brands Hatch here I come

Thanks again to all those that tool the time to share their time and wisdom I can now go hime and sleep tonight

si21