by Paul Tindall » Fri Jun 01, 2012 7:59 pm
Hi,
I removed the subframe (engine cradle) from my A610 some time ago and although I haven't done the same with the D502 I have, I'm pretty sure the same principles will apply. I have extracted the description from my original post but I would say that there was no need to disconnect fuel lines, or clutch line and I did not disconnect the handbrake cables because I decided to modify the bracket (tube) attached to the cradle through which the handbrake cable runs. I basically removed the welded thin tube (which left the brake cable free) and replaced both with stainless 'home fabricated' brackets that simply bolt into the cradle (drilled and tapped a 6mm thread for each bracket).
Here is how I did it:
Firstly support the car under the main jacking points (assuming they are OK - I used a large timber beam with rubber pads under the jack points (had recently stripped/repainted those!).
I had the advantage of a pit that I supported the car over but provided you lift the back high enough there should still be enough clearance to drop the cradle.
Next remove the complete suspension assemblies/links but leave the calipers connected - I supported them on heavy wire hooked through the bolt holes in the turret top.
Withdraw the driveshaft assemblies complete - not difficult if you take care with the removal of the locking pins - then remove all the heatshields attached to, and in close proximity to the cradle. It also makes life easier if you remove the exhaust and cat/link pipe depending on your car.
With the engine/cradle assembly pretty clear of attachments, I then drained the oil and removed the sump. I had also removed the anti-roll bar by then (yes that can also be extracted but it's tight!) - when I did that I was yet to decide to remove the cradle - of course it will come off with the cradle anyway.
You then need to make a support to take the weight of the engine on the machined flanges of the sump - a couple of heavy timbers cut to size then joined to make a 'T' piece will work - just make sure that they are about the girth of a railway sleeper! You may need to sand the top of the T piece to sit flush with the engine flange (oh, don't forget to unbolt the oil pump filter!) and then position the support in place, shimming the base with thin ply wedges if you need to tighten any gap.
Almost there!
Unbolt the gearbox mount/plates from the cradle. Then I made an additional support to take the load off the front of the gearbox with an old cast aluminium bracket. At this point you have the engine, gearbox and car body all supported in the correct position relative to each other, and the cradle can now be loosened. I had also removed my old aircon pipes which you may find helpful. Just the 6 bolts hold the cradle on, but it took some levering to free it from the turret mounting point - just leave the bolts partly in whilst you pry it free so that it holds on the bolts as it drops.
Seems a bit involved but it does work and allows access to all those areas inaccessible with the cradle in place. Putting it back was interesting! I had a little difficulty getting the protrusions on the turret bolt mounting to seat in the corresponding recess in the turret, but I probably had a little too much paint on them! Still, I did all of this single handedly so if you can coopt a little help I'm sure it would be easier.
Hope this helps.
Paul T
