Cylinder shimming question

.

So for dallarax19, presumably plastic is the recommendation if that's a metal shim in clee's photo.

Thanks for the responses. I did not know the plastic ones existed so that is another element. As I mentioned the shim/seal design is very odd to me, I see the galvanic issue as a problem in all three configurations, the metal is likely worst case however especially if there is a breach. It makes me wonder how the dialog went back in the day when the PRV design team decided to go this route. It was a huge leap of faith and probably some lively discussions. I have seen other manufacturers use "O" rings but I don't know if they are a shim too. Anyway I would appreciate a lead on where can I get the plastic shims? I don't know of any distributors int he US.

Thanks again,
Brian

Thanks for the responses. I did not know the plastic ones existed so that is another element. As I mentioned the shim/seal design is very odd to me, I see the galvanic issue as a problem in all three configurations, the metal is likely worst case however especially if there is a breach. It makes me wonder how the dialog went back in the day when the PRV design team decided to go this route. It was a huge leap of faith and probably some lively discussions. I have seen other manufacturers use "O" rings but I don't know if they are a shim too. Anyway I would appreciate a lead on where can I get the plastic shims? I don't know of any distributors int he US.

Thanks again,
Brian

Alright gents, I am now finally rebuilding the engine and my first cylinder fit trial is with the pink shim and the cylinder stands only 0.10mm above the block - checked with a ground straight edge and feeler gauge. The spec is 0.16 to 0.23mm. What is standard practice of shimming these guys? Stacking them seems problematical to me but it many be standard practice. Currently I have paper shims on hand and this is my main hurdle at the moment. What do you guys do please advise.

Brian

.

Awesome! Thanks for the reply. Great to hear from you Martin. I still struggle with the shim/seal set up but I now have to commit and take the plunge. I really appreciate the information. Stay tuned for more questions

Regards,

Brian

Alright gents,

Ok I am almost there. After inquiring with the French, UK and US guys the option I like best is to deck the block 0.18mm and eliminate the shims. My cylinder to cylinder variation is not measurable so it seems best. Aside from a slight cam timing change does anyone see this approach as an issue? I am really hung up on the multishim seal for long term. What are the thoughts? I will use a conventional sealant at the cylinder to block interface.

Regards

Brian

Seems a bit OTT but if you're happier doing that I don't see an issue .I would still pop a bottom limit plastic shim in rather than sealant for ease and zero risk of both seal and bits falling off
Same as a head skim you may want to just check the timing cover and maybe dress that to take up the mismatch although a few thou shouldn't worry seal too much .

Yes, yes it is a bit OTT but I only want to do it once. I like your idea about a single plastic shim so you don't get sealant weep or stringers, that is a pretty smart call. So where do I get those plastic guys for a 2.7l cylinder? I have no leads on them in the US. Thanks in advance for your help

Regards,

Brian