GTA atmo not starting

The car was starting fine. I decided to change the distributor cap and rotor arm as they were worn. I removed the air cleaner, unclipped the distributor cap, fitted the new rotor, fitted the new cap (with all ignition leads still attached to the old cap). I then undid each lead one at a time from the old cap and fitted them one at a time to the new cap in the same positions. After refitting the lead to the starter motor, the car idled fine, so I refitted the air cleaner and it has refused to start since!

I don't appear to have dislodged anything, the only thing I did after refitting the air cleaner was to uncross a couple of the leads, but did this one at a time, omly undoing them at the distributor end and refitted in the correct place on the distributor cap.

I'm sure I've missed something simple!

I have taken a picture of how the leads are routed. Could anyone let me know how to include a picture in a post?

Thanks Andy[/img]

[stephendell]

Have you knocked off the lead that goes to the fuel cut solenoid in the left hand side of the carburettor or disturbed the distributor pick up connector?

Could anyone let me know how to include a picture in a post?

Most members use "Photobucket"..... you will have to subscribe to it (free).... having logged on, follow instructions to upload your picture/s, and once in your album, open RAOC on another page, and go to "Reply" on your post, go back to photobucket, under your pic, select the "IMG" option, copy,..... go to the RAOC page, and paste into the box.... add text if you wish, and submit as usual. .

Thanks, Steve. Will check tomorrow.

Thanks, John. Will see if I can get a picture up.

Pictures show the old distribtor cap. I put the old distributor cap back on in exactly the same way - still not starting. Also tried different combinations of using the new/old cap and rotor.

Andy, Unfortunately the pics do not really help except to show that the lead that Steve mentioned that goes to the fuel cutoff solenoid is in place. But check that the solenoid itself is not loose. It screws into the back of the idle jet and can come loose and cause intermittent running..... just check by trying to turn it with your fingers. The other lead that Steve suggests you check is the one coming out of the side of the distributor..... there should be a connector a short distance along the lead from the distributor that needs to be checked.
From there I think it should be determined whether the fault is ign or fuel related. First check if there is a spark.... the easiest way is to remove one lead from its plug and connect it to an old plug and lay it on top of the engine making sure the metal body of the plug is in good contact with the engine and with someone cranking, check for a spark.
If you have a spark, then you need to check fuel delivery. Easiest way is to take the fuel feed to the carb off, and direct it into, say, a plastic bottle (that should avoid the risk of fuel splashing over the engine..... not a good idea) ..... again with someone cranking see if fuel is pumped into the bottle..... (on Atmo`s, the pump will not start until the engine is cranking)
Sorry its so long winded but unfortunately there are very many reasons why the car won't start which may or may not be linked to what you may have inadvertently done so it is important to identify where the fault lies.
See how you get on with that, and let us know how you get on.
John

PS. One other quickie before you dive into the above...... are you absolutely sure that your king and plug leads are fully pushed into the cap..... with new caps, there could be a tightness when inserting the leads meaning that they do not go fully home..... lay a lead alongside its receptor and viewing how deep the contact is in the cap,,, see how far down the receptor the outer rubber end of the lead should be then make sure that when you insert the lead, it goes that same distance..... hope that makes sense.
John

I gave all the leads and connectors mentioned a good 'wiggle' and checked that the connections were secure. Hey preso! It starts and runs fine now! I suspect it was the distributor pick up lead, that although in place, needed the 'wiggle'. 25 year old French electics... Thanks gents.

An update.

Seems really keen to cut out when cold. Performance otherwise seems fine. According to rev counter it's idling at about 600 ish rpm even when hot. Not sure it was quite this low before changing the cap and rotor. The handbook says it should be 800 rpm.

The cap was an Intermotor one and the rotor a Facet one. Maybe I should try replacing with ones from Simon Auto?

The cap was an Intermotor one and the rotor a Facet one. Maybe I should try replacing with ones from Simon Auto?

If it runs fine apart from when it is cold, I doubt if it is the cap or rotor. The revs do seem a bit low though which could be the reason why it has the tendency to cut out (stall ???). What I would do is get the engin running at normal temperature, make sure you take it out on the road and give it a few bursts of acceleration, or drive for more than 25 minutes to make sure the "accelerated idle" has neutrallised, then identify the large adjusting screw on the near side of the single choke carb and either screw it in or out (can't remember which way. but you will soon find out) to raise the revs to between 800 and 850 revs.
Before you do this it might be an idea to lubricate the throttle linkage and make sure it runns free.
Also make sure all the vacuum pipes to the distributor and to the twin choke carb etc are in good condition.
Give that a try and see how you get on.

Took it out for 30 min run. Then returned to losen the idle screw straight away. Did this with the air cleaner removed - the manual says leave it on - not sure if that make a difference. The idle speed increased to 800 rpm. Started from cold this morning and the problem persists. Since I didn't have a cold idling problem before changing the cap and rotor, I wonder if something related to the choke was disturbed. Can't see any problem with with hoses etc around the distributor and throttle cable seems fine.

There is a little solenoid valve with two small vacuum pipes coming off it on the off side of the engine. Make sure one or both electrical spade connectors are still attached. And check that there are two vacuum pipes attached to the distributor and are not split.

Another thought struck me overnight..... I have had this happen.
If a plug lead unclips itself from the plug, it can go unnoticed. Even detached, visually, it can appear normal. Gently pull each plug lead..... if it is securely attached to the plug, it will not move, however if it has become detached, you will notice it.
I do this every so often as for some reason or another, they can become unclipped.
Another quickie... make sure the connector on the side of the sump has not become detached.

Hi John

Have been following this thread with interest as I too have a temperamental set up. Starting in the morning takes 3 tries. It fires it cuts out, it fires it cuts out and on the 3rd go it stays on. Warms up quite well with no issues. However temperamental when accelerating away from a start. It almost doesn't want to catch and if you lift on the clutch you can stall, so you wait for revs to be a bit higher and then lift clutch and pull away with no problem.
I have ordered a spare part that is missing from Andy in Halifax and hope this cures the problem. After your suggestions I will be checking all pipes for splits and make sure all connectors are OK. The bit that got me stumped was your suggestion about the connections to the sump. Where exactly is this connector? I have wires not connected to a sump plug at the very bottom of the sump and the offside of the car. I thought this was oil temp as the gauge on the dash does not work, perhaps all is connected.

A picture would be helpfull of what it looks like on your car. I will try to take a picture of mine later to explain my problem. Or perhaps you have a schematic of wiring that goes to that item. Or perhaps even it is someone else you are talking about.

Thanks as always

Felipe

Starting in the morning takes 3 tries. It fires it cuts out, it fires it cuts out and on the 3rd go it stays on.

Wow Felipe!!! First thing on a Sundy morning..... and so many questions, .... well here goes.
This seems to be a normal thing on the Atmo's. The fuel pump will not start to pump until the engine is cranking or running (safety feature), as a consequence the carb's float chambers are usually empty due to the fuel having evapourated since you last started the car. Having switched off the ign, the temperature at the top of the engine rises and has that effect on the fuel in the carbs.
I have fitted a primming switch using one of the redundant switches on the dash which I push before starting for say 10 seconds or so, then the engine will fire immediately and run.

However temperamental when accelerating away from a start. It almost doesn't want to catch and if you lift on the clutch you can stall, so you wait for revs to be a bit higher and then lift clutch and pull away with no problem.

I would check the accelerator pump action.... remove and check for blockage its swan neck, and give it a good shake. Sometimes the internal "ball non return valves" stick allowing the fuel to run back and as a consequence there is no fuel in the swan neck and a flat spot is created when accelerating and starting off. This could cause the problem you are experiencing.

I have ordered a spare part that is missing from Andy in Halifax and hope this cures the problem.

Please satisify my curiosity.

The bit that got me stumped was your suggestion about the connections to the sump. Where exactly is this connector? I have wires not connected to a sump plug at the very bottom of the sump and the offside of the car.

See above..... not too sure what you are saying.... can you help me please?
The connector is... as you say.... on the offside of the sump and its purpose is sensing the temperature of the oil, and it is part of the "Anti Polution System" and the "Accelerated idle control".
When the engine is cold, these systems together cause an increase of idle to around 1100 revs until one of three things happen. The temperature of the oil goes higher than 35 degrees. the car accelerates hard enough to open the twin chokes operating a micro switch on the controlling linkage, or a timer times out removing the voltage to a small solenoid valve sutuated off side of the carbs..... referred to in my post to Andy, neutrallising these systems and reverting to idle to 800-850 revs.
Hope this makes sense to you.

John

[BIG_MVS]

Strewth these ATMO's are temperamental, prime buttons? Does it have a handle to start as well? Get a GTA Turbo boys then all your problems will be over