Cutting Out

Hi there, hope someone can help on this.

My friends GTA Turbo keeps cutting out violently while driving along. He says it only happens when its warm.

The car will start up near enough straight away, or even bump start itself.

When this happens, no dash lights come on and the Rev needle and Speedo needle stick where they are.

Any thoughts

Thanks

Either TDC sensor, common fault, its near the exhaust manifold so it plays up with heat....., or is it under load, then it could be the boost cut.

Changed that sensor, but its still doing the same.

I was wrong when I said it just does it under load, as it can go at anytime.

Like I say, the engine just cuts out, no go at all, no dash lights or anything, then it just surges forward again after a few seconds.


This problem only occured after he had some welding done on the car

Sorry, not much help but.....I was lead to beleive that welding and batteries just do not "mix". Was the battery disconnected while the welding was being done. Otherwise all sorts of electrical problems could arise???

Thats what I thought, Im pretty sure they would have disconnected the battery, but you never know.


The garage is called RE Performance Centre in Bury, they've done work on mine and my friends car before, and we've never had any probs.


Its just baffling me thats all.

I'll have to see what Dave says.

Heres a quick list of all the things that could cut the engine straight away, and restart..

TDC sensor, or its wiring to it (check continuity)
Fuel pump wiring near drivers rear wheel (corroded)
Earth and power feeds to ignition module
King lead broken down
Rotor arm
MAP sensor or wiring to it
Main plug into ecu, or plug loom in engine bay
dodgy immobiliser (if fitted)
Temperamental ignition barrel or feeds

I had this problem with my car, turned out to be the fuel pump wiring.

StuartC - what was the exact issue with the fuel pump? And which pump was it - front or rear?

I've twice experienced problems where my car has cut out, feeling very much like fuel starvation / vaporisation after being stuck in a few traffic jams for an hour or so and being forced to creep slowly along. Obviously fuel vaporisation should be near impossible on a fuel injected car because the lines are kept under high pressure.

On both occasions I've just made it to the side of the road or motorway. The car won't restart until the engine bay is cooler so I'm forced to sit there with the engine cover open.

The interesting thing is that the sound of the fuel pump is very different as you prime the system, before turning the key the final twist. It sounds strained as though no fuel is getting through - similar to if you ever run out of petrol.

Darren, thats definately the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

100% as I had exactly the same problem, cut out, no restart until cooled down.

I've had to sit there many a time like a prize pr*ck, until it cooled down a little
I think they are about £29.00 from Renault. Only two bolts to fit, although you do need bendy arms and a set of ramps.

Good Luck

Any idea why the fuel pump sound prior to starting would change pitch if it was the crankshaft sensor?

It is a pretty distinctive change in sound, enough that you realise when it finally will start again because the whirring is different!!!

The rear pump can change in pitch if the front pump wasnt supplying it properly, either knackered pump or blocked filters. Silt buildup in fuel lines from front to back can be a problem too. The only way TDC could affect pump noise is this. When you prime, the fuel pump pumps and the ecu tells the injectors to squirt for firing. If theres no TDC signal, the ecu wont open the injectors, and the pump will be pressurising the fuel system with nowhere to go.

Try unplugging your TDC and see if this replicates the problem.