F388 DSM -V6 turbo

answers on the back of a fag packet please.....

......................and I presume there are 4 bolts in each turret pocket - 2 onto the turret with captive nuts on the pocket and 2 that locate forwards towards the passenger compartment????

Yes ....two to turret and two to roll bar over rear glass .Look down in the gap where the side vents are .

.....and how about the 6 cradle fixing bolts?..Is the long upper one into a captive bolt?. Huh?

No ...nut ans bolt for the ones in the turret and also the middle ones on the bottom .The two leading edge ones are to captive nuts in the chassis .

BTW I have new fixings in stock .The only ones I don't have are for the lower rear wishbone to hub carrier .
Also full set for the front running gear as well .All with nylocs rather than the std star washer and nut .

see my PM please Lee...cheers....

Does anyone understand how the door catch mechanism works? Both driver and passenger door will lock on the key from outside. They will also lock from the button on the dash (doors closed). Opening the doors from outside on the button OK but from inside is a problem. Neither door will open on the door pull handle although they will open on the manual floor handles. I've accessed both sides and have removed both locks. There are 2 solenoid motors on each lock, one more or less horizontally mounted (2 pin plug) and the other vertically mounted (5 pin). Both locks (either side) exhibit similar symptoms. If I close the catch to simulate the door closed, the vertical solenoid will lock and unlock from the dash switch (when plugged in to the loom obviously!). However, the horizontal solenoid will only 'click' when operating the door opening pulls on the door, but the 'piston' doesn't move even when disconnected from the mechanism of the catch, so its not jammed. The piston (slider) easily moves in and out by hand pressure. Is it coincidental that they have both failed simultaneously?
Coincidentally I notice someone has soldered a wire into the other 2 pin plug that plugs into the catch mechanism (drivers side only, see photos, brown wire). This goes to a hidden switch under the dash with the relay board. I suspect it was something to do with the Scorpion alarm that was fitted (long since inoperative I think!!). I have tried cutting that wire but it makes no difference to the above testing.
I know its no problem to open the doors from the floor override pulls (and maybe not a MOT failure) but really I would like a 'fix'. Anyone?????????????????? ??

Can you hear the relays click when you pull the door lever ? If not I would look at burgess swith on the door .Simplw enough to get at ,just one small screw in the handle and check the switch is making contact .

The door switches are working...yes, one can hear them click and there's a 'pulse' at the unlocking solenoids too, so appears power is getting to them .

If you want to check the operation of the "Door Opening Motor Units" (2 pin ones) remove them from the bracket and apply 12v to the two pins. The plunger will extend or retract depending on the 12v poliarity applied across the pins.

Does anyone understand how the door catch mechanism works? Anyone?????????????????? ??

I have posted what I understand the door opening operation consists of in the RAOC Members Area if anyone is interested. ...

Am concerned about welding the turrets so close to the fibreglass....is it possible to get the turrets off for a fix 'on the bench?

nope ......

so how do I avoid setting the whole lot ablaze???

and thanks John for that enlightening bit on the door locks. The solenoids (unlocking) just 'click' when 12 volt is applied so am waiting for the postman with 2 new ones from Bulgaria!!

so how do I avoid setting the whole lot ablaze???

....... what about Mig/Arc welding ..... very localised heat spot. ????? ............... just a suggestion.