Hello from a Newbie with a Project

Thanks guys. Is there a manual for the GTA downloadable from somewhere?

I would get that oil changed ASAP. Perhaps use some engine flush to get rid of the inevitable sludge then change again.

Remove the hose from the rad and flush until it runs clear from the expansion tank. Replace then top up slowly until you have about half full in the expansion tank. Warm up the car topping up slowly as you go. Then turn off, and repeat 2-3 times until the water you flush after running is clean. Then fill with the correct coolant.

Worth removing the idle valve and cleaning with some brake cleaner. They get gummed up. You can feel if it's working by holding it and connecting/disconnecting. You should feel the motor move.

[Alpineandy]

I'm sure someone will mention the coolant bleeding soon (sorry No GTA so can't help).

As opposed to the bleeding coolant....

Take the stat out,pop the housing back on with the rubber seal then remove the hoses at the rad and flush that way .Then flush the rad .

Looks a straight, honest car, have fun, there's nothing like a new toy, opening and closing things, finding bits that do this and that !
I'd drop the sump for the price of a gasket, or there's a good chance it'll come off intact, bit of hylomar, bosh.
I've seen old oil ( probably mineral stuff admittedly, and I would think if the PO loved his car it'll have something decent in it) set like jelly so the pickup sits surrounded by it , start changing it for high detergent stuff and getting it up to temp, hey presto, slurp slurp sludgy stuff 'Was that the oil light that just flicked on'. You don't want to ruin that crank, grinding isn't an option, B/Es anyhow.
It may be as clean as a whistle inside, full of Mobil 1 that's a few hundred miles old......may.
Bit of WD down the bores wouldn't go amiss, sticky rings anyone?
I think the wheels look bob on, period, I'd 'ave 'em.
Sticky throttle sounds like pedal area, shaft runs through a couple of clamps past other two pedals to tunnel.
Good luck and well done for saving it, well pleased for you.

Thanks, good flush and oil change sump off are on the list. Oil at dipstick looks very clean but you never know. Plenty of brown/red sludge found in water pipes though.

Speaking of which, in fading light last night, I removed one of the coolant hoses to the stat to give better access to distributor cap. Still tight looking and can't seem to see any clips. Will have a better look in daylight but any tips for getting to rotor arm without any drama?

I also checked the pedal end for sticking throttle issue and unfortunately found some serious corrosion here. It's such a mess I couldn't quite see how it should fit together. Is the floor in this area metal or fibreglass? Is it likely I can just replace the pedal box ? I'll put up a photo of this shortly. Thanks.

Pedal area corrosion

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429612087.566250.jpg

Closer up, the rhs brackets that hold the accelerator spindle and the rhs bracket securing the brake and clutch have both separated from the floor.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429612037.037015.jpg

I'm sure someone will offer up a decent S/H one, they wouldn't be beyond replicating if the pedals and the spindle bits are OK, not to pay someone, I mean if you're stuck S/H will be first option.
Mine was a bit grotty there, cup brush in an angle grinder is best option, but be careful in that tight space, they can grab and rip your face off !
I use Bilt Hamber De-ox summat ? light blue watery stuff, seems the best rust stabiliser I've used, just don't lather on coats and coats of paint, just a brush of wax, then you can keep your eye on it
The floor area the pedal box is bolted to is the front triangle that's then spot welded to the spine, don't widdle yourself its looking the worse for wear it'll probably be just the seam, not a terrible job to sort.
I'm jealous......... I want new toys..........

[BIG_MVS]

I'll get the lads to check the breaker pedal box and come back to you, probably going to be the same to be honest but you never know.

"Harold, GTA pedal box for UK customer please!"

That footwell looks identical to my silver cars one. Not a big deal as long as you can get a 2nd hand pedal box, the floor is fibreglass, all the rot will be the pedal box. Car probably has a leak somewhere that constantly wets the carpet and this is the result. If that's the biggest problem you have you'll have done very well :0). Top of screen or top of door, favourite for the water ingress.

I'll get the lads to check the breaker pedal box and come back to you, probably going to be the same to be honest but you never know.

"Harold, GTA pedal box for UK customer please!"

, thanks, fingers crossed

That footwell looks identical to my silver cars one. Not a big deal as long as you can get a 2nd hand pedal box, the floor is fibreglass, all the rot will be the pedal box. Car probably has a leak somewhere that constantly wets the carpet and this is the result. If that's the biggest problem you have you'll have done very well :0). Top of screen or top of door, favourite for the water ingress.

Good to know, that sounds a bit more hopeful; especially if a 2nd hand pedal assembly turns up somewhere

I decided to stop procrastinating and jack her up and see what I found. Not as bad as it could be I think, but I'll post up photos soon so those in the know can give me the news....

To my untrained eye, things don't look too bad underneath. Didn't fancy the look of the jacking points mind, so I opted for ice hockey pucks on the control arms.... hope this is OK? I thought most of the engine subframe looks serviceable but might be missing the obvious. There must be something solid here at least because the towing hook held whilst loading and offloading from the transporter.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429691580.754732.jpg

Looking right a bit, I think the control arms are OK (at least they holding the weight of car for now) but at the rear of the right hand sill there is obvious corrosion coming through, in fact it looks like puff pastry for the rearmost section. I'll try and get a closer shot. Oh, and the right hand bracket for the handbrake cable has rusted / been knocked off at some stage.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429691537.976849.jpg

The left hand sill doesn't have any apparent issue but I've yet to remove the carpets and check from the inside.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429691484.438764.jpg

Closer view of the right hand front sill

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429692865.489914.jpg

Here's a close up of the right hand rear sill. The middle section isn't showing obvious rust yet, but I haven't been poking around yet.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429692890.946477.jpg

The left hand sill isn't showing any of this yet.

Started dismantling some of the gubbins from the top of the engine today, just to see what goes where, find all electrical connectors for cleaning, get access to the spark plugs and distributor etc. Decided to use some subtle labelling to make things stupid proof when it's all going back together.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429721164.530754.jpg

Cap and rotor looked pretty good and no sign of that dreaded condensation. Cleaned them up a bit and went to reassemble.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429720983.906006.jpg

That's when I noticed I was missing one of the bolts from the distributor. That can't be helping, need to get a replacement for that then. Big_M ?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429720733.471835.jpg

When attempting to get the dist cap back on, I couldn't seem to fully locate the black dust cover into the distributor. Does this fully insert before the cap goes back or does it leave one section sticking proud. I didn't get the chance to see as it came off as I was fighting to get the whole lot past the lower coolant hose to the stat. Having a missing bolt probably doesn't help either!