Hello from a Newbie with a Project

JohnC - any thoughts? Mine's always been like this from day one of ownership.

I don't know if I can add any more than what I said in my last post Darren.
The only thing I can show is the wiring info on the computer plug ..... this is for the '89 model year as this is the earliest info on these plugs that are detailed .... all the earlier manuals do not give intricate details of every connector on these Alps.
What we do know, however, is that on the 86 model, that wire "A" of that two pin connector does go to pin 9 of the computer plug, but as you can see in the pic below, no wiring info is given for pin 9 so one can only assume it is a "N/C". ...... Pin "B" of our connector goes to pin 27.



As I said before, there is a direct earth going to the unit which goes in on pin "B" of the three pin connector, which I suspect is all that the unit requires.

John

Right prepare to be confused.

I think this is the sort of plug you're looking for (my spare one, suitably tweaked from when I was dabbling with the Co pot)

1.jpg

Bit covered in dust but it's been sitting on the shelf.

However I thought this was the case, but didn't say at the time as I wanted to confirm my suspicions.... Take a look at my coil pack and wiring below.

The same wire you're seeing as split off at the plug is indeed attached on mine but is just a 10cm trailing wire not connected to anything. (I've bent it over in the picture so it's more visible). Usually that wire is just tucked behind the coil pack so unless you pull it out then you don't see that it's not attached to anything.

Mine's an 88 F plate (89 model year) so some of the cars that might look like they have both wires are again leading to no-where.

JohnC - any thoughts? Mine's always been like this from day one of ownership.

Thanks Darren. That's good news of sorts, I think. If yours is running ok without that wire, there's a good chance my 88 should too. My wire actually goes behind the ignition module and then looks like it just connects to an earth tab. It's a bit hard to see but I'll attempt to post a photo later. Might even be that yours was once connected the same way, many moons ago? Hoping to get a bit more car time this afternoon.

Whilst I'm here, anyone got spark plug gap and torque settings for the turbo? Done a quick search to no avail. Cheers

Might even be that yours was once connected the same way, many moons ago?

There's a thought. Could be the case. It's been like it for as long as I remember though, so I don't think it's critical at all.

Keep us posted. If you want the plug then let me know.

There's a thought. Could be the case. It's been like it for as long as I remember though, so I don't think it's critical at all.

Keep us posted. If you want the plug then let me know.

Thanks Darren, will pm you.

Didn't get a chance to play with the car this weekend, other duties took priority..... did get the chance to pull all the spark plugs, and they all look pretty identical, like this.....

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430078596.596999.jpg

What do you all reckon? Pretty carbon fouled? Running somewhat rich?

Check fuel pressure reg,when they fail they go high ,and water temp sensor ecu ,lhs on water pump .

Check fuel pressure reg,when they fail they go high ,and water temp sensor ecu ,lhs on water pump .

Will do. What fuel pressure am I looking for? Is it a resistance test on the water temp sensor? Cheers

Just over 3 bar.Yes ,resistance relation.Figures are on here somewhere in a few posts on the subject

I would check the water temp sensor on the side of the thermostat. I've had a couple go off limit and it leads to seriously rich running.

.

The more I think about the extended cranking required to start the engine and the eventual stall and rich smell, the more it makes sense that the FPR is shot. In fact, this is likely the issue that led to the car being left with the garage from where I finally picked it up 4+ years later. I haven't had a chance to test yet; does the car have a fuel check valve somewhere or does the pressure gauge need plumbing in on a t-piece? What's the best source for a replacement FPR?

Hi Greg,

Got your PM about the connector, and you could gladly have it gratis. However I just thought I'd check and although it looks the same, it's uses female terminals (so it doesn't plug into the coil). Odd really as outwardly the casing is male.

Anyway, bit of searching from discussions with Jon_V that it's a Delphi connector. So voila:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotiv ... s/8010752/

However I think you can specify male or female terminals... looks to be female same as my one, but you might be able to find a different version or swap those out. Also keep in mind there seem to be different key-ways. I had to cut the key-ways into mine to make it match up as they are orientated differently for different applications.

Nothing's ever easy is it. However I think it's likely that you don't need it anyway, AND that a blown fuel pressure regulator would certainly cause those type of issues.... been there, done that. Complete with hydraulic locking of the bores when the reg blew totally (luckily on the driveway) but still not nice.

Hi Greg,

Got your PM about the connector, and you could gladly have it gratis. However I just thought I'd check and although it looks the same, it's uses female terminals (so it doesn't plug into the coil). Odd really as outwardly the casing is male.

Anyway, bit of searching from discussions with Jon_V that it's a Delphi connector. So voila:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotiv ... s/8010752/

However I think you can specify male or female terminals... looks to be female same as my one, but you might be able to find a different version or swap those out. Also keep in mind there seem to be different key-ways. I had to cut the key-ways into mine to make it match up as they are orientated differently for different applications.

Nothing's ever easy is it. However I think it's likely that you don't need it anyway, AND that a blown fuel pressure regulator would certainly cause those type of issues.... been there, done that. Complete with hydraulic locking of the bores when the reg blew totally (luckily on the driveway) but still not nice.

Thanks for that Darren, you're a star. Going to see what I can fashion as per JohnC s advice, then if it all works out, runs like a dream etc, will use that link you've shared to make it look better Hoping to test the FPR today, but still trying to find a source for a replacement. Have contacted the local Renault dealership and sent them some details... will be interesting to see what they come back with.

Just for reference, from reading a bit more, the spark plug torque is 17-20 nm, and the gap, I think, for NGK plugs in a turbo is 0.6mm. (0.7mm for ATMO). Please correct if wrong.

Yes I think 0.6mm last time I set them up (on the advice of Martin F) Finger tighten them first (well on the end of the plug extension- you can't reach them otherwise) just to make sure you don't cross thread. Aluminium heads so relatively soft. I usually just tighten then quarter turn if you see what I mean.

Also you can use a more generic FPR if you properly get stuck. If you can find someone with a spare GTA one you might be able to test the theory out.