Hello from a Newbie with a Project

I got a few hours to play with the GTA today. Cleaned up all the electrical connections, the spark plugs, the Idle Control Valve and the distributor cap and leads. I also found that the centre pin on the 3 pin plug of the ignition coil (again the ground connection) was completely knackered..... Great, perhaps another potential cause of running problem.

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I got really excited at first because, although the car took a bit of cranking, it settled to a decent idle and I thought I'd cracked it. However, about a minute later, the idle became lumpy and eventually the engine died as it had been doing before. Back to the same issue, the only way to start again was to crank with wide open throttle, and eventually get the engine to bite. It could run with continual blips of the throttle, and could rev up nicely but once left to idle, it spluttered and cut out. Time to investigate the coolant temp sensor and the Fuel Pressure Reg....

So testing the coolant temp sensor from the connector to the sensor on the lhs of the thermostat, and the reading looks to be correct for ambient temperature today (276 Ohms). The air temp sensor on the throttle body also tested out ok at 280 Ohms.

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By the way, what is this sensor on the rhs of the thermostat housing? The sender for coolant temp on the dash perhaps? I couldn't get a resistance reading from the connectors on this having pulled the plug as seen in the foreground.

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So, on to testing the FPR. I didn't have access to any spare fuel pipe today to test the fuel pressure at the rails, so instead I removed the vacuum line from the top of the FPR to see if that would make any difference. I have read that if the FPR diaphragm has ruptured, running the car will eventually pull petrol through the vacuum line which goes to the intake and causes the rich running and stall. Seems like a good theory considering I had a stable idle for a minute or so before trouble.

With the vacuum connector removed, the car started a little easier and it could be kept idling almost indefinately without stalling. This gave me the chance to top up the coolant and get the engine up to running temp for the first time. All seems good bar the running issue thankfully. Even after 10+ minutes, there was no evidence of fuel coming from the vacuum connector of the FPR so I doubt its a failed diaphragm. At least I can now fairly safely assume there's nothing wrong with the ignition side of things.

So it seems the engine was running better due to the intake leak created by removing the vacuum line to the FPR, perhaps balancing out the rich running. In fact, kind of emulating what the idle control valve should be doing I think? So that's where I turned my attention. With the engine running, at various speeds and states, connecting and disconnecting the wires to the ICV appears to have no affect? Is this correct? Could this be the cause of my issue, or indeed, one of a combination of issues? I cleaned the valve with carb cleaner earlier in the day but is there a foolproof way to prove whether the ICV is doing its job?

Still no luck locating a replacement FPR. If going down the generic / adjustable route, does anyone have a recommendation of one that fits / works? I may also need to source a replacement Idle Control Valve. Any sources?

Since progress on engine has stalled (no pun intended!) decided to be brave and remove some trim and pull back carpet to look at offside sill from the inside.

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This is definitely the worst one, what u all think from these photos?

I had a high idle problem which was the ISCV stuck open too far and tried carb cleaner and brake cleaner to now avail, but they do come apart. you need to carefully pry the tangs away from the alloy body and it will come apart revealing a very weedy looking motor.
It's then easy to get it all moving as it should, re-assemble and bend the tangs back.
As far as it idling if you get it going and then kink the hose to the plenum from the valve it should die straight away, unless there is a leak. It sounds as if it is stuck and cannot adjust as per the ECUs requirements, i.e if you were to put the lights on full chat it should drop, but the valve would adjust to keep the idle, up a bit too far then settle.
As far as plug colour goes I wouldn't put too much on it if its just been sat idling or revved static, only if it had been up to temp and driven for a reasonable stretch, would it concern me. I may wrong, theres probably something not perfect with mine as its not a happy bunny if I fire up too many times, but then not drive it/ get it up to full temp.
Are you sure both pumps are running, a dicky front will mean running/not running issues.
Rot pictures it's hard to tell without poking about with it in front of me, it was always likely the car would want work, it's just a case of going through it and totting up what it needs and making a decision from there, just hold back on grooved and drilled Carlos Fandango racing shiny bits until you know a likely MOT'd outlay.

I would change the ecu engine temp sensor as a precaution. It sounds very familiar to me the way you had to restart. Mine also seemed to be fine on the resistance front but it did solve the issue.

ECU temp sensor was out of production, but now back via SimonAutos. (I bought one as an exchange for Mr Faulks when I had to nab his spare). Expensive, but there you go, not many options really. You could check again with Renault in case they've come back into stock.

Re the rust. Check it out - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6580&p=70939&hilit=revenge#p70939

It's all doable, bit of a pain but Lee or a local welder could sort it. It's inside so doesn't have to be pretty when carpet will be going over the top again. Are you replacing the carpet with new stuff? There's some details on my threads. (Carpet and Carpet II The Revenge)

I'd be wary of getting a local welder to do it ...just saying like ...
It needs someone that knows what they are doing given the construction is far more than just metal and can be quite easily bodged and covered over . It's a bit more involved than it looks and as Ryan says without it being here to poke at properly I can't give a full opinion but ...inside the cabin is probably the least important area .Jacking points/outriggers,turrets front and rear and crossmembers .

Re the plugs ,yes only as good an indicator as when it was last switched off but you need to check the fuel pressure with a T'd in gauge and also the resistance ECU input .Other sensor on pump is for dash gauge .
Last car I had with a fecked FPR would run really rich then die ...but as the line was getting 10 bar .......I was more suprised that it hadn't caught fire

It needs someone that knows what they are doing

Clee... aka St Bernard of Montjoux...

He was proclaimed the patron saint of Alpinists and mountain climbers by Pope Pius XI in 1923.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I do feel like I'm making (slow) progress but not about to give up on this.

I got a little more time today to work on the car. Rigged up my fuel pressure gauge using an in line T-piece, was very diligent making sure all the connectors were just so to avoid major spillages. Once happy, turned ignition on, for a few seconds, only to hear a sprinkler like noise coming from the engine bay.... Oh sh*t, must have forgotten something but clad I was being cautious. In fact, turns out the cast T-piece on my gauge is so porous, fuel is squirting out through the metal..... That'll teach me to buy a cheapo off ebay. Frustratingly didn't manage to get a reading..... so will source another gauge and try again

This did give me a chance to attack the crusty pedal box though....

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There wasn't a whole lot left of this one, luckily, the replacement from Martin looks very solid so should do the job nicely. One problem I can see is that the 2 studs that the box bolts to on the floor are also beyond saving. Anyone tackled this issue before, are the rotten studs removable somehow or is it possible to bolt through the floor from underneath? This is all that remains....

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I have a ECU temp sensor that has failed in the start mode but runs at the correct setting for a car up to temp you can plug in to try if you want as for the idle valve this is a bosch valve no0280140501 all so fitted to Vauxhall Astra,s

I have a ECU temp sensor that has failed in the start mode but runs at the correct setting for a car up to temp you can plug in to try if you want as for the idle valve this is a bosch valve no0280140501 all so fitted to Vauxhall Astra,s

Hi Andrew... thanks for the offer... do you mean the sensor you have has failed stuck at 403 to 417 Ohms? What i should have done when I had the car up to temp the other day was re-check my coolant temp sensor to make sure it had risen to same levels. I'll run the car up again soon and check and let you know. Lee mentions a good point, testing resistance at ECU.... anyone tell me offhand which pins to test across for the coolant temp sensor?

I have a 2nd hand ICV on the way to me from a Volvo.... apparently from a working vehicle ... but who knows. Is there a way to test ICV valves by applying voltage somehow? What sort of signal should be reaching the valve from the loom connector? Cheers

If you can get to borrow one then that'd be a good way to eliminate if the sensor is an issue, but are you getting the orange ECU light on the pod? If the ECU sees a value out of range then it should light this up. Obviously it may not be changing from the 'cold' resistance value so keeping it enriched, but again something to note as a properly broken wire usually lights up the dash.

If you do get stuck and need one then the Simon Auto link is as follows:
http://www.simon-auto-shop.com/shop16.htm
Search on 061033 - should be 69 Eu + 25 shipping + MwSt (tax) = 94 Eu when I ordered it. Good job the euro has fallen a bit.

Alpines are like a science experiment though. Best to change one variable at a time.

... anyone tell me offhand which pins to test across for the coolant temp sensor?

Page 7, post 1 ......... all the info you want is there, Suggest you print out pic for future reference.

... anyone tell me offhand which pins to test across for the coolant temp sensor?

Page 7, post 1 ......... all the info you want is there, Suggest you print out pic for future reference.

Of course, apologies, forgot you posted that.... printing for prosperity.

[BIG_MVS]

That grot doesn't look bad at all Greg. I will post pics of the breaker on my next visit to it, that will make you feel a whole lot better trust me!

Yes as for running issues, can you check the front fuel pump is running?