F 923 PPG

It's almost a year since I acquired Jon Kenny's GTA and in that time I've only managed to clock about 1k but it has been an interesting learning curve and the more I drive the car the more I get to like it and wish I'd bought one sooner.
I think it had been sitting around in his garage most of the time and of course various electrical issues manifested themselves on the drive from Hampshire back to Suffolk but in spite of yellow warning lights the car managed the journey and surprised me by it's speed and responsiveness. The central locking system, rear window heater and interior lighting are all u/s but this has not really got in the way of me using the car and it passed it's mot back in March without any advisories.
The ride has been marginally improved by fitting new Pirelli's on the rear but Suffolk's back lanes are a bit 'third world' so local driving is not as comfortable as main road trips where the car seems to come into it's own and thrive the harder it is pushed.
My earlier speedo issue was resolved by cleaning up the earthing point on the scuttle and at the moment the only unsolved mystery is a yellow 'zig-zag' light that comes on during the warm up period but goes off when the engine is up to temp.
The major unexplored concern I have about the car is the dreaded front cross-member rot issue which I was ignorant about until reading up on the forum. I need to get that checked out sooner rather than later.
In the meantime I will attempt to attach some pics.

Murf.

The central locking system, ................................. and interior lighting are all u/s

Check the fuse ....... these two items share the same fuse. Info for the position of the fuse can be found in the owners handbook.
BTW ....... when you say "The central locking system" do you mean ...... not working by the switches on the dash, or the remote Plip or both ?

Thank you John for the fuse info. I'll try and check the fuse box at the weekend. With regard to the door locking, although the car came with two 'zappers'/ignition keys they have never worked and the only way into the car from locked is by manually using the ignition key in the driver's door and then leaning over to lift the button on the passenger side as the n/s lock does not respond to the key. The only way out once in the car is to use the floor mounted door releases. Bit of a performance but I'm getting used to it and also having to fiddle with the immobiliser mounted on the central console before trying to turn on the ignition.
The joys of old French electrics which seem to be on a par with the Italian ones with which I've also had quite a lot of experience.

Murf.

Murf,
does the dash mounted door switch work the doors.
the half with the spot should lock both doors, the bottom half with decal of doors should unlock them both.

I am led to believe that there is a micro switch behind the door card mounted door pull which often fails.

All is repairable.

Hi,

I really like your wheels, do you have any idea what make they are?

Terry

[phildini]

Hi,
I really like your wheels, do you have any idea what make they are?
Terry

Those wheels are not available anymore. I purchased a set of Dare RS 10" rears and 7.5 Fronts, both come with a lovely DEEP DISH . Unfortunately not many distributors want to sell them in this combination.

Hi,
I really like your wheels, do you have any idea what make they are?
Terry

Those wheels are not available anymore. I purchased a set of Dare RS 10" rears and 7.5 Fronts, both come with a lovely DEEP DISH . Unfortunately not many distributors want to sell them in this combination.

Thanks for the info. I had an idea they were Dare's. May I ask if you obtained yours recently as I have looked at the listings and whilst the rears don't seem to be a problem, the fronts aren't listed with requisite offset.

I believe the wheels on murf s car are the BBS RS split rims that were available as an option from new

I had the same on my GTA

[phildini]

......Thanks for the info. I had an idea they were Dare's. May I ask if you obtained yours recently as I have looked at the listings and whilst the rears don't seem to be a problem, the fronts aren't listed with requisite offset.

4X100 7.5 ET38 should work and are still available. I bought mine around a year ago, but as I said previously it was a hassle. I had to wait two years because back then DARE were producing the 7.5 and 10's in different parts of the world and the center caps looked different. This has now been sorted on the new versions, but beware, just in case somebody is still holding old stocks.

I checked the history file that came with the car today and the non standard alloys are Compomotive and were put on in 2002 at some considerable expense!! The anodising on the rims seems to be holding up remarkably well although the car's led a pretty sheltered life up to now.
The issue of the central locking would seem to be at the lock as I can hear a very faint whirr when I turn the key in the driver's side but without it translating into any movement of the lock open or shut.I've also played with the split dash mounted switch but that doesn't seem to operate at all.
I'm no electrician so for the moment I think I'll live with things the way they are as getting even my 'friendly' garage to troubleshoot the problem would probably end up with a hefty bill.
The good news is that I've had three evening runs in the last week without any yellow warning lights so maybe I just need to use the car as a daily driver.

Murf.

Please update your profile with "Location" so that some local enthusiats maybe able to assist you.

[Alpineandy]

I'm no electrician so for the moment I think I'll live with things the way they are.

I hate electrics. Just can't get my head around them at all.
However if you can get to the solenoids / motors then it's real easy to make sure they've clean contacts.
On another Renault (Safrane) I had a boot lock that didn't respond.
A quick clean of the connections (electrical contact cleaner), some encouragement by me manually moving the mechanism and a squirt of silicon lube had it working again.
Did the same with the passenger door but that only works when it feels like it

........... as the n/s lock does not respond to the key.

No electrics involved with this ..... it is purely mechanical. Even with the battery disconnected, you should be able to lock/unlock the doors with the key.
I think you will find either the mechanism is seized up, or one of the mechanical links have come adrift. The pic below might help, but you do have to remove the rear side panels to get to them. Also it is easier to remove the rear seats which will give you better access.
If the car has been like this for some time, it might be worth checking both sides, and whilst you are about it, detach and clean the the 5 pin connectors on both lock/unlock solenoids, and lubricate the whole mechanism. Also detach and clean the two pin connectors on both the door opening motors.

It's another year and about 2.5k of pretty trouble free running(apart from the headlining attempting to smother me on the way back from RATs open day). My insurance renewal arrived the other day and I've realised that the car is seriously undervalued at 6k so am wondering what a more up to date agreed value would be.
The car has now done 82,500 miles, is in good structural shape, excellent paintwork, engine/gearbox and comprehensive service history. Also now boasting black leather seats thanks to Big MVS.
Since buying the car 2 years ago there has been quite a shift in the market but I really don't know what would be a sensible figure so any feedback would be very welcome prior to my renewing the policy.

Murf

The more it is valued at, the more it will cost to insure.
Part of the decision is "what is it worth to you" and balance that with the current sales prices.