Standalone ECU Project A610

Good work! Great to see things progressing

[stephendell]

I have another question... I dropped a bolt in the middle of the V. Ooops. I can't even see it to see where it went. Do I absolutely have to remove it, or can it stay there for ever more?

Telescopic magnet on a stick thingy may help if it wasn't stainless.

Leave it ...with any luck it'll plug a hole when the top of the block rots out .....

I find one of these rather useful, combined with a torch.
Pen-Style-Extending-Magnetic-Pick-Up-Tool-SMALL-HEAD search ebay for your chosen seller

Leave it...

Darn it... My OCD got the better of me. Decided to remove the manifold as I simply couldn't find it. Removing the manifold is a harder job than I thought!

Clee - you got any inlet manifold gaskets? How much?

Andrew

OK - a quick update...

I totally bodged up removing the inlet manifold - requiring me to take the turbo to someone to remove a couple of snapped studs - one from the turbine exhaust housing and another from the big bracket that holds everything together... I am pretty upset with myself as if I'd only read the manual it would have saved me a lot of bother. Oh well. Live and learn!

I have decided on some injectors:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221756514759? ... EBIDX%3AIT

They are Siemens Deka 660cc ones. A friend came round at the weekend and was discussing that he'd used them on his R21 Turbo and they work just great! I was concerned about low duty cycles at idle and part throttle openings but apparently they are designed to be very linear and controllable. Now need to save some pennies to buy them, because I just ordered this wideband O2 controller and sensor:

http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=327

I've decided to mount it towards the end of the down pipe - it's just far enough away from the turbo there. I'll need some heat insulation for the wiring because it's right in amongst the exhaust manifold and the down pipe. Bonus is that the place that's sorting my snapped studs can also weld in O2 sensor bungs! They are 5 mins down the road. I was going to go to somewhere 45 mins away, so that's useful.

I had a day off work yesterday to make some significant progress. I have pretty much laid out all the wiring for all the sensors, etc. but want to redo the knock sensor and TDC sensor wiring as the cable I bought from eBay is a bit large in diameter and I'm not very happy with it, so I ordered some screened cable from EFI parts.

In order to minimise RFI from the injector and ignition wires I have totally re-organised the way the wiring works. My basic rule is:

Anything that goes "to" the engine or that controls anything on the engine goes round the left-hand side of the bay;

Anything that receives anything from the engine goes round the right-hand side of the bay;

Except for the boost control and evap control solenoid, which have to be on the right hand side; and the wideband O2 sensor, which has to be on the left-hand side (probably).

I twisted and grouped all wires and have ended up with an engine bay that looks like this:



I haven't screened the sensor wires (except TDC and knock sensors) but they are already done better than OE so I hope that will be good enough.

Andrew

Looking good that must have been a bich removing the turbo with it in the car. Looking at your fuel lines you need to check them, pull back the heat matting and check the braiding into the swage if it's all fallen apart you need to change them, as the new wireing will not stand a petrol fire.

Thanks Custard!

They look OK at the end closest to the bulkhead but I'd need to cut the clips off the ends of the fuel lines at the other end to inspect properly.



and:



Do you know how I would replace the swaged ends and the flexible fuel pipes without removing the hard fuel lines?

Do you know what the green metal pipe is? The one most inboard of the three metal pipes - fuel in/fuel out and ???

Thanks,

Andrew

And yes it was a pain removing the turbo but easyish compared to my Gordini Turbo (except for the bashed studs)!

Think I've answered my own question?

AN-xxx hardline adapter?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AN-6-AN6-STRA ... 8shKgmKUPQ

Don't know which AN to go for - I think I'd feel happier if I replaced these lines though. I am already going to replace the fuel hoses to the rails.

I plan to replace the fuel pipes underneath the car too but maybe not this time...

I used a load of AN fittings when I did my GT Turbo power steering conversion a couple of years ago. Very handy - lots of fun making up custom lines!

Andrew

Green pipe is vac feed for servo .

If you think those lines look OK then I've got a box of pre-loved shi...parts I can sell you

Engine out to change the fuel lines complete.

Hehehe....

OK, OK - I will renew them. I'm not intending to take the engine out! At least not for now.

I presume the challenge of changing all the fuel hoses is the accessibility next to the gearbox with the air-con pipes in the way?

Should I be worried that the main feed to the fuel pump doesn't seem to have any kind of hose clamp on it?

The fuel feed is the lower of the two in this photo:



Why do I get shipwright's disease every time I get embroiled in a project like this? My thoughts go something like:

"While I'm in here, I've got this part off, so I might as well renew/improve/upgrade it"...

I have bought some fittings for the fuel rail and the fuel hard lines. Don't know if I've got the right ones so I've just ordered one of each and will get more if necessary. I'll use AN-6 teflon hose and will get some heat insulation sleeving to cover it too...

Andrew

[quote="r5gordini"]Hehehe....

Difficult to tell from the photo which pump this is. The one at the front is a high volume low pressure pump so should be ok with regular jubilee type clips. The rear pump Inside the offside wheelarch is the high pressure pump. It feeds from the low pressure pump via a small tank / reservoir, then delivers fuel to the injection system at high pressure. Hence the threaded unions on the output side & filter. While the input to this pump is relatively low pressure it should still have suitable jubilee clips fitted

A610 just has the one high pressure pump up front .No rear tank,just main filter in the rear arch .
Problem with the pipe replacement is that it all runs behind stuff that can only be removed with the lump out .GTA is the same with the fuel feed up and behind shields and wont come out in situ .

I would change the main lines they look like there time has come to an end. Did you check your knock snesors, shine a light in there mine where both cracked as you have the turbo of its not to bad a job. Like mine the list goes on on on on on on.