Gta v6 rebuild

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I did talk to the guys at amethyst about having 2 one for each bank but they said it could not be done. I think there's a lot more power to be had if it could be done plus a lot more economy, people say why do I bother with the old fire it's just they just sound amazing, plus they are so free revving.

[mettersl]

Custard, how do read the timing marks time this atmo engine?
They are behind the flywheel so I'm struggling to find an angle that allows me to set up the timing...even at the original point tdc at del Are you able to use those marks?
Or have you found a point on the pulley side that can act as a useful reference, I can only find tdc there against a rib, that would be ok if it would idle at 1000, but 2-3k is its happier point. Problem is it doesn't idle well at tdc ignition setting, in fact it back fires all the time. So something isn't right....
Sorry to ask such muppet questions, I'm just getting fed up with a shiney car that doesn't work and want to get it back on the road, so I have no pride in asking such a basic question.
Thanks
Lee

[stephendell]

There should be a small timing bracket bolted to the block. Paint tippex on the pulley and bracket notches and then use a conventional timing light.

[mettersl]

Not on mine sadly....looks like I'll have to make one. There is a boss, but nothing attached to it,
There is one on the 610, and it doesn't need it,
Manual says marks under a cover on the back, but even with the heat shields off its hard to impossible to see and I don't have enough hands for a timing light, mirror and to rotate the distributor.

I dont have the timing marks on the block (timing chain cover), but I do have an early car.
There are some notches in the back of the crank pulley though.

Hey Lee,

The most accurate method will be to take the spark plug out of number 1, manually check the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley is actually at TDC (there are a few marks, don't assume they are correct). Once you are happy they are correct highlight the TDC mark with white paint. Now you need to use a digital timing gun like Snap on make which allow you to advance and retard the light so you can see the exact timing without the degree marker that bolts on the timing chain cover which is not very accurate anyway. If you want to borrow my timing light you're welcome to it.

John.

Yes it is on the frunt pulley you need a good strobe light one that is powered by the battery. I will have to look in the book for the timeing, as mine is set up differently, from memory it starts of after tdc by 1 or 2 degrees and then advanc from there. This is because the fuel is a vapor when the engine is hot on tick over or starting. If you do not have a plate take a plug out find tdc and mark the timeing cover, you will then have a starting point, start the engine and set the timing at tdc then remove the vacuum pipe from the distributor and rev it up until the centrifugal weights are advanced then note the position on the timing cover you then know say it added 5 then put the vacuum on rev and mark.
From there you can then set it up as you now have marked tdc 5 and 10 or whatever it advances by.

[mettersl]

Thanks everyone,
I'd assumed that there was a way of doing it like the manual, clearly it s French manual and written for laughs.
I'll do the plug out and check route and see where that gets me to.
The problem so far (and this could be inaccuracy on my behalf) is that when I set it statically to tdc at idle (there is a tdc mark on the distributor too) it's clearly too retarded and I get backfiring and flames out of the carb. Impressive to watch, but not great for running. Having a very old timing light that's a bit intermittent doesn't help either...it's been 20 years since I used one.
When I move it forward I get very fast idle (2-3k) and with the advance curve that makes setting hard.
I'll go back to bacis and see where that gets me.
Do they all warm up quickly...5 minutes of fast idle and it's mid way up the gauge..but good oil pressure too. Nice to see working gauges after so long asleep. This car hasn't been used since 1996.

Lee ..... This might help to get a rough idea of the correct orientation of the distributor as a mechanical starting point. This is mine and it has not been moved since, and is working fine.
John

Ok lee I have had a look at the manual and refreshed my memory, all you have to do is find tdc disconnect the vacuum and at 1000rpm it should be set at tdc.
If it still blows back though the carb check the valve clearances, if it still does it valve timeing.
It gets hot pretty quickly as the carb is heated from the water straight from the cylinder head.

The info I have in the Atmo Owners Manual, and my Service Manual states the ign timing at idle ... 850 rpm + or - 50 rpm, with vacuum capsule disconnected should be 15 degrees BTDC.

Well it could be confusing, the timing curves re R340 on the previous page states curves drawn in engine degrees and engine r.p.m. ( for direct reading with engine running) vacuum disconnected.
But on page c.2 crankshaft setting 15 +-1.
If you set it at 15 at 850 you would then have + 11 for centrifugal + vacuum 9 = 35 which sounds right so I would go with John.

Lee ...... are you saying that you do not have the timing gauge as seen in the pic below, which is to the right of the C/S pulley and not very easily seen ? ....... If so, that is a pity. You will see from the pic, I have rotated my engine to show where the marks align for 15 degrees BTDC. ......... the TDC mark is the one to the right. So going from right to left, First mark (smallest) is TDC, big gap to second mark is 10 degrees BTDC, and the one to the left of it is 15 degrees BTDC.
You say that you have timed your engine for TDC with the distributor mark ....... the engine will run very retarded .... which is what I think you have found as it is not correctly timed with the valves, hence the back firing.
A couple of other points to consider ..... the timing must be set with the engine at normal running temperature ..... once that is achieved, the "accelerated idle / anti pollution timer relay" must be tripped .... this is done by just moving the twin carb linkage a few mm to actuate the micro switch controlled by the linkage to trip the timer relay then release, then detach the vacuum pipe from the distributor ( the one furthermost away from the distributor body ..... now you can use your strobe to set the timing.
As in previous post, rotate the distributor body to get it as close to the pic of mine as a starting point.
I hope this helps.
John

[mettersl]

Hi John,
Thanks for the picture, my engine doesn't have that plate. It's clearly been lost on the way. It's a 7700268816, apparently....not that that helps...
That said, I think something can be made. The pulley has the marks.
More fabrication coming up.....
Had it running and warmed up today so feeling like it's getting there, but forgot distributor was loose, put hand on it, shifted... so tomorrow it's not going to work straight away....
Lee