Driveshaft seals A610

Hi All,

Needing help (again)! I know it's been discussed before, so I don't think I need details about how far in our out to install the new driveshaft seals. Mine were half covering the roll pins and I suspect these not being fully flush has destroyed the seals. The running surface of the driveshafts looks fine so I will install the new ones further inside so that they don't cover the roll pins.

I will seal the roll pins!

My question is - is it recommended to remove the driveshafts entirely? I've undone the top bolt on the hub carrier and hinged it out of the way, but the driveshaft is still in the way.

Any hints on a recommended drift/tool to put the new seals in?

Thanks as always,

Andrew

Yes take the driveshafts out.It's a fiddle to get the seals in true out the car so the less in the way the better.DIY tool would be a big socket with an extension ...but you'll probably have to buy a socket big enough to suit so may as well turn up a proper tool.OD needs to be tight to the seal lip and ID to clear output slpines and be deep enough not to bottom out ....then attached a rod that can be hit ...Think plunger shape...even then it will go in on the "wee wee" and you'll have to tweak it by hitting off center ....

Thank you so much, Lee!
Wish I didn't have to rely on others so much at the moment, but owning a 610 isn't easy! Makes my Gordini Turbo feel like a toy car...

Buy a spare seal.
Note it may be worth fitting Easi sleeves to the shafts too, where they wear.

David

Is this the right tool? It doesn't look like the one in the manual but it seems to have the right part number?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Miller-6435-B ... Swc-tY4-~t

Andrew

Could be but dash 01 ? Not complete?

WP_20171025_001.jpg

Thanks! It doesn't look right...

I have found that a 35mm deep socket should do the trick. However, a further problem has surfaced! The driveshaft seems really stuck in the hub. Not sure how to release its grip!

Any hints?

Andrew

4YT14_AS01.jpg

Hehe.... I think I've got something like that... feel such an idiot at the moment. Just want to drive the car.

I am well into the job now. I've replaced the right-hand seal, but it may be in a bit too far! The outer lip of the seal doesn't come up and over the larger diameter part of the driveshaft. Not sure if that's an issue or not? I just don't have the experience to know.

I did need to fit an SKF SPEEDI-SLEEVE - for reference the part number is 99169.

Before: damage to driveshaft:

20171104_164204.jpg

After: SKF sleeve fitted. No idea how the damage was caused. I struggled a bit with driveshaft removal, so I may have done it but I am glad to have fitted the sleeve. It was pretty easy to drift in place as a special "tool" is supplied with the sleeve!

20171104_165359.jpg

Now I notice that reassembly of the driveshaft apparently requires loctite SCELBLOC (whatever SCELBLOC is) on the driveshaft splines. They were greased, not loctited, on my car.

Why loctite? Surely that will make them very difficult to remove in future? Does anyone do that? Or just grease...

Andrew

Now I notice that reassembly of the driveshaft apparently requires loctite SCELBLOC (whatever SCELBLOC is) on the driveshaft splines. They were greased, not loctited, on my car.

Why loctite? Surely that will make them very difficult to remove in future? Does anyone do that? Or just grease...

Andrew

I guess it depends on where you read that information.

In the Alpine manual for the A310 it says the splines should be greased with Molykote BR2. The drive shaft arrangement on the A310 is similar to that on the A610.

Andrew ..... I would have thought that you should have thinly smeared the damaged part of the driveshaft with the loctite before fitting the sleeve so that the sleeve could not move once assembled ???????? .......definitely no locktite on the splines.

Andrew ..... I would have thought that you should have thinly smeared the damaged part of the driveshaft with the loctite before fitting the sleeve so that the sleeve could not move once assembled ???????? .......definitely no locktite on the splines.

I did think the same as you John, as that seemed a logical thing to do. However, the SKF installation instructions, which are online, states that adhesives are unnecessary as the sleeves are an interference fit on the shaft.
As I commented above it could depend on where r5gordini read that SCELBLOC should be used.

A610 manual states locktite the splines but on the hub side only from memory.I never do.Gta manual says nothing about it

I didn't use loctite on the sleeves - they are quite a tight fit. The installation instructions say only use sealant if a lot of the original surface is missing.

I don't think they'll rotate.

A610 manual says SELBLOC on the hub splines. Seems a weird thing to do - maybe it stops wear? I would have thought the hubs would have been tight on the splines and secured with the driveshaft nut anyway.

Still agreed no loctite on the splines?

Andrew