Cracked block

At long last my engine has been correctly diagnosed as a crack in the block. It's terrible news but atleast I know what the overheating problem is now. I'm waiting for a quote for the repair but in the meantime does anyone have any useful help or advice?

Will it be better/cheaper to replace rather than repair? How much approx does it cost to buy and instal a pug 24v unit?

Where in the block is it cracked then, and how did they finally work it out?

Specialists can perform aluminium welding / repair quite efficiently; my brothers old Lancia developed a small crack in the alloy head and it was a relatively cheap fix and a total success. The main issue, as with most repairs, is the labour involved in actually removing and re-installing things.

As long as nothing else is wrong it's certainly going to be cheaper than the adjustments required to fit the 24v unit.

It was by chance the garage found it, he'd test driven the car in the evening, then in the morning he noticed coolant loss on the ground coming from the block itself and not a hose.

It does sound like that's what the problem has been, even now if the fluid was topped back up it will run fine for about 20 miles then overheat.

Best start looking for a bank loan...

Personally I,d look for a replacement rather than a repair if it's the block .The labour involved in a repair would be the same as a swap + the welding .To have cracked it will have been subjected to some major heat or is a faulty unit ,so either way you can't be sure if the problems sorted .
Welding ali is difficult to get right ,so you need to be confident or best ,recommended a place that can do the job .

To have cracked it will have been subjected to some major heat

Either that or some major cold. A lot of cracked blocks are from lack of antifreeze in the winter and the coolant icing up and expanding, damaging the block in the process. You'd need a pretty weak mixture or strong wind chill though in the UK with our mild winters.

Sometimes it's just a weak point in the casting for that unit. I guess you need to consider also how many miles it has done when looking at the economics of overhaul / repair / replace.

[Alpineandy]

I think I can get a Volvo PRV cheap(ish), but may have to go to sth coast to pick up. Don't know what it's like, but I'gather it's a good engine.

..two ideas...use top grade block sealer...

..or...buy my spare V6 turbo engine!

[stephendell]

I'd give the block seal a go. Some of it's pretty good. You have nothing to lose. If it doesn't work bin the engine/block and fit another. Probably cheaper to fit a complete s/h engine than to strip down and fit a block. A610 blocks were still available new recently at around £300-400. Not sure about the regular version though.

Truthfully, the block seal will work. Don't buy the weak motorfactors stuff, go to an engineering shop that does machining/headwork and they normally sell stuff that you could make bricks stick together!

What is the name of the stuff to use ??? Would you be able to find out as you seem to be in the know


I've searched on the internet and came up with thi stuff.

http://www.motorshop1.co.uk/sealup.htm


Does this sound like the stuff needed ???

Thanks

David, so if the block seal doesn't work.. How much do you want for your engine? Is it complete with gearbox and is it healthy?

[stephendell]

http://www.motortraders.co.uk/xcart/cat ... 250ml.html

Follow the instructions to the letter!

David, so if the block seal doesn't work.. How much do you want for your engine? Is it complete with gearbox and is it healthy?

Oooh, make me an offer!.. Thats not including hybrid turbo or gearbox. Engine was rebuilt around 4 years ago, all parts painted, heads reconditioned. All fuel injectors and sensors renewed. 78000 miles.

[stephendell]

£100

£101

alpinerob